Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
History
In addition to Mafia island, the Mafia Archipelago includes Juani (southeast of Mafia),
Chole (between Mafia and Juani), Jibondo (south of Juani) and at least a dozen other islets
and sandbars. The archipelago first rose to prominence between the 11th and 13th centuries
in the days when the Shirazis controlled much of the East African shoreline. Thanks to its
central buffer position between the Rufiji River delta and the high seas of the Indian Ocean,
it made an amenable trading base, and the local economy soon began to thrive. One of the
first settlements was built during this era at Ras Kisimani, on Mafia's southwestern corner,
followed by another at Kua on Juani.
By the time the Portuguese arrived in the early 16th century, Mafia had lost much of its
significance and had come under the sway of the Sultan of Kilwa. In the early 18th century,
the island's fortunes revived, and by the mid-19th century it had come within the domain of
the powerful Omani sultanate, under which it flourished as a trade centre linking Kilwa to
the south and Zanzibar to the north. It was during this era that the coconut palm and cashew
plantations that now cover much of the island were established.
Following an attack by the Sakalava people from Madagascar, Mafia's capital was
moved from Kua to the nearby tiny island of Chole. Chole's star ascended to the point
where it became known as Chole Mjini (Chole City), while the now-main island of Mafia
was referred to as Chole Shamba (the Chole hinterlands). Mafia's administrative seat con-
tinued on Chole throughout the German colonial era until it was moved to Kilindoni on the
main island by the British, who used Mafia as a naval and air base.
Today, farming and fishing are the main sources of livelihood for Mafia's approximately
45,000 residents, most of whom live on the main island. As a result, while shopping in the
markets, you'll find cassavas, cashews and coconuts in abundance.
MAFIA ORIENTATION
Kilindoni - where all boats and planes arrive - is Mafia's hub, with the bank,
port, market, small shops and several budget guesthouses. The only other settle-
ment of any size is Utende, 15km southeast of Kilindoni on Chole Bay, where
most upmarket lodges are located. The Utende-Chole Bay area is also the main
divers' base. Mafia's western side is dotted with small villages, offshore islands
and sandbanks, and stands of mangrove interspersed with patches of beach.
Many Chole Bay lodges are closed in April and/or May.
