Western Tanzania - Tanzania - page 477

( 0713-691185, 0787-065717; info@kolekole expeditions.com; Main Rd; per person
full board $80; ) About 1.5km off the main road towards Mikumi town (the turn-off is
just west of the park boundary and signposted), with five large, nice safari-style tents, a
restaurant and a bar.
Kilimanjaro Village Inn GUESTHOUSE $
( 023-262 0429; Main Rd; s/d Tsh15,000/20,000, without bathroom Tsh7000/10,000;
) Shoestring rooms, most with fan, and meals. It's in a walled compound about 1km east of
the Ifakara junction and just west of the railway tracks.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Mikumi's bus stand is at the western end of town on the main highway. Minibuses go fre-
quently towards Udzungwa Mountains National Park, but you'll need to change vehicles
at Kilombero. It's better to wait for one of the larger Dar to Ifakara buses, which begin
passing Mikumi about 11am, going directly to Udzungwa (Tsh5000, two hours) and on to
Ifakara (Ts10,000, 3½ hours).
Going west, buses from Dar es Salaam begin passing Mikumi en route to Iringa (Tsh5000,
three hours), Mbeya and Songea from about 9.30am. There's also a direct bus from
Kilombero to Iringa, passing Mikumi about 5.30am. Going east, there are large buses to
Dar es Salaam (Tsh10,000, 4½ hours) departing at 6.30am and 7.30am.
Udzungwa Mountains National Park
Towering steeply over the Kilombero Plains 350km southwest of Dar es Salaam are the
wild, lushly forested slopes of the Udzungwa Mountains, portions of which are protected as
part of Udzungwa Mountains National Park. In addition to an abundance of unique plants,
the park is home to an important population of primates (10 species - more than in any
of Tanzania's other parks) as well as the grey-faced sengi ( Rhynchocyon udzungwensis) -
a recently discovered species of elephant shrew. It makes an intriguing offbeat destination
for anyone botanically inclined or interested in hiking away from the crowds.
The going can be tough in parts: the trail network is limited and those trails that do exist
are often muddy, steep, humid and densely overgrown. Infrastructure is rudimentary and
you'll need to have your own tent and do your hiking accompanied by a guide. But the
nighttime symphony of forest insects, the rushing of streams and waterfalls and the views
down over the plains compensate. Plus, because the Udzungwas are well off the main road,
relatively few travellers come this way and you'll often have most trails to yourself.