Western Tanzania - Tanzania - page 447

Greybeard, Mike, Frodo, Fifi…) instead of numbers and insisted that they had
personalities, minds and feelings. This seems logical to a layperson, but both de-
fied scientific convention. The research continues today, making it one of the
longest-running studies of a wild animal population. Less famous, but also im-
portant, Toshida Nishida of Kyoto University began research at Mahale the next
year and that work also continues.
While Pan troglodytes schweinfurthii (Eastern chimpanzee), one of four
chimp subspecies, was once common across western Tanzania, it's now en-
dangered and only about 2800 remain, all along Lake Tanganyika and Rubondo
Island ( Click here ) where some were released in the 1960s and 1970s after be-
ing rescued from zoos and circuses. While many organisations are working to
protect Tanzania's chimps, three-quarters live outside protected areas and loss of
habitat (due to logging for both wood and charcoal and expanding farming) is
accelerating.
Both Gombe and Mahale Mountains National Parks have chimpanzee com-
munities that are fully habituated to humans and visiting them is an awesome
experience. Viewing time is limited to one hour and people aren't allowed to ap-
proach closer than 10m; though guides routinely flout the later rule. Remember
that chimpanzees are susceptible to human diseases, so if you have a cold, you
won't be allowed to track them, and at Mahale, everyone must wear a surgical-
style mask. Additionally, don't eat, drink, smoke, shout, point, use a camera
flash or wear perfume anywhere near the chimps. The minimum age for track-
ing is 12 at Mahale and 16 at Gombe. Tracking is allowed year-round, but not
only does the mud make the trails treacherous during the rainy season, the
chimps spend much of their time in trees.
SLEEPING & EATING
Tanapa Resthouse GUESTHOUSE $
(r per person US$20) Next to the visitor centre at Kasekela, this quite comfortable place
has six simple rooms with electricity during morning and evening. Two overflow facilities
have rooms of lesser quality and toilets at the back. Camping costs the same as the rooms.
Due to some very aggressive baboons, campers must eat and store food inside the kitchen.
The restaurant's prices are high (breakfast/lunch/dinner US$10/15/15) but you can bring
your own food and use the kitchen for free. Cold drinks are sold at more reasonable prices.
Gombe Forest Lodge TENTED CAMP $$$