Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
UKEREWE
With its simple lifestyle and rocky terrain broken by lake vistas and tiny patches of forest,
Ukerewe island, 50km north of Mwanza, makes an intriguing, offbeat diversion. The few
proper sights, such as what's claimed to be sub-Saharan Africa's first cotton ginnery
(1904), now shuttered and home to scores of vervet monkeys, in Murutunguru (don't miss
the little forest reserve behind it), and Ikulu ('White House'), the modest 1928 European-
style palace of the island's former king, signposted just behind the market in Bukindo, are
mildly interesting, but the deeply rural life between them is the real attraction.
Nansio, the main town, has internet access (when the island's electricity is working) but
no internationally linked ATMs. Shared taxis and dalla-dallas connect Ukerewe's few siz-
able villages and bikes can be hired at the bus stand.
Paulo Faustine, who runs the Ukerewe Tourist Information Centre ( 0783-864006;
guidemwala@gmail.com) out of his computer/mobile phone repair shop next to La Bima
Hotel (look for the green 'i' sign), is a friendly and reliable guide around Ukerewe or to
surrounding islands. Other potential guides with lower prices and less English may meet
you at the dock.
Sleeping & Eating
La Bima Hotel GUESTHOUSE $
( 0732-515044; s Tsh12,000-15,000, tw Tsh18,000; ) Despite cramped rooms (some
with hot water) and peeling paint, this OK place is Nansio's best lodging. It's got the top
restaurant too.
Mkoje Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $
( 0748-836901; r Tsh5000, without bathroom Tsh3000) This unsigned blue-and-white
building next to La Bima is as good as any other cheapie in town and quieter than most
since it has no bar.
Getting There & Away
The passenger ferry MV Clarius sails daily from Mwanza North Port to Nansio (Tsh3600,
3½ hours) at 9am/10am weekdays/weekends; it returns at 2pm. Two other ferries (3rd-/
1st-class/car Tsh4000/5000/7000, three hours) dock at Kirumba, north of Mwanza's centre
near the giant Balimi ad. The MV Nyehunge departs Mwanza/Nansio at 9am/2pm and the
MV Samar III departs Mwanza/Nansio at 2pm/8am.
It's also possible to reach Nansio from Bunda, a town on the Mwanza-Musoma road, which
means that you can go from Mwanza to Ukerewe and then on towards Musoma or the Ser-
engeti without backtracking. Via public transport, take a Mwanza-Musoma bus and dis-
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