Southern Highlands - Tanzania - page 365

OLDUPAI GORGE
Slicing its way through up to 90m of rock and two million years of history, Oldupai (Ol-
duvai) Gorge on the plains northwest of Ngorongoro Crater is a dusty, 48km-long ravine
that has become one of the African continent's most important archaeological sites. Thanks
to its unique geological history, in which layer upon layer of volcanic deposits were laid
down in an orderly sequence up until 15,000 years ago, it provides remarkable document-
ation of ancient life, allowing us to begin turning the pages of history back to the days of
our earliest ancestors.
Fossils of over 60 early hominids (human-like) have been unearthed here, includ-
ing Homo habilis, Homo erectus and most famously a 1.8-million-year-old ape-like skull
known as Australopithecus boisei, which was discovered by Mary Leakey in 1959. The
skull is also often referred to as 'zinjanthropus', which means 'nutcracker man', referring
to its large molars.
The small Oldupai Museum (adult/child Tsh3000/1500; 8.30am-4.30pm) on the rim
of the gorge documents its formation, fossil finds and the Leakeys' legacy. Guides will take
you down into the gorge or out to the shifting sands , a 9m-high, 100m -ong black dune of
volcanic ash that has blown across the plain from Ol Doinyo Lengai. It moves 10m to 20m
per year. The museum is 5.5km off the road to Serengeti National Park.
About 45km south of Oldupai Gorge at Laetoli is a 27m-long trail of 3.6-million-year-
old hominid footprint, probably made by Australopithecus afarensis . They were covered
for protection, but some will be put on display alongside a new museum planned for the
site. Currently casts of the prints are in the Oldupai Museum.
SLEEPING & EATING
The only public campsite (camping adult/child US$30/10) is Simba A, up on the crater
rim not far from headquarters. It has basic facilities and can get very crowded so hot water
sometimes runs out. There are 25 special campsites (camping adult/child US$50/20) in-
cluding Simba B, just up the road from Simba A; Tembo A and B north of Sopa Lodge;
Empakaai A and B on the rim of Empakaai Crater; and 15 in the western plains where the
wildebeest pass during the migration. None of them have facilities and should be reserved
as far in advance as possible.
Ndutu Safari Lodge LODGE $$$
( 027-253 7015; www.ndutu.com ; s/d full board US$198/396; ) This good-value
place has a lovely setting in the far western part of NCA, just outside the Serengeti. It's
well located for observing the enormous herds of wildebeest during the rainy season and
some animals hang around through the dry; including many genets who lounge in dining
room rafters. In addition to NCA fees, you'll need to pay Serengeti fees any time that you