Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
for the ruins or other walks in the area, including a one-day climb of nearby
Kerimasi (2614m), can be found at Engaruka Ruins Campsite, or arranged in
advance through the tourist information office in Arusha. The ruins are unsigned
above the village of Engaruka Juu. Turn west at Engaruka Chini, a smaller vil-
lage along the Lake Natron road, and follow the rough track 4.5km until you
reach Engaruka Juu Primary Boarding School. Visiting costs Tsh5000, payable
at the government office in Engaruka Juu.
Engaruka Ruins Campsite
(camping US$10; ) in Engaruka Juu is dusty
but shady with acceptable ablutions. You can use its tents for free and meals are
available on request. There's also the neglected church-run
Jerusalem's Camp-
site
(price by negotiation) right by the ruins. Engaruka Chini has an unnamed/
unsigned bucket-shower
guesthouse
(s/d without bathroom Tsh5000/10,000).
It's the green-fronted building right near the entrance gate into town.
There's a daily bus to Arusha (Tsh7000, four to five hours) via Mto wa Mbu
(Tsh4000, 1½ hours) leaving Engaruka at 6am and turning right around for the
return trip shortly after arrival.
Karatu
This charmless town 14km southeast of Lodoare gate makes a convenient base for visiting
Ngorongoro if you want to economise on entry fees. Naturally, many camping safaris out of
Arusha overnight here. Services are improving and there are now several banks that change
cash and have ATMs plus a few internet cafes. There are also several mini-supermarkets,
but it's better to stock up in Arusha.
The not-so-organised
Ganako-Karatu Cultural Tourism Program
( 0787-451162)
has an office down the hill from the east edge of town. Its main trips are to nearby coffee
plantations and Iraqw (Mbulu) villages. Many of its half- and full-day trips are done by
mountain bike.
The seventh day of each month is Karatu's market
(mnada)
day; worth making some time
for if you happen to be passing through.
SLEEPING & EATING
Karatu has many other good lodges, but with such grossly inflated nonresident rates that
they're unrecommendable.
In Karatu
The Bwani neighbourhood, south of the Hai petrol station/supermarket, has many good
guesthouses where owners haven't yet learned the phrase 'nonresident price' plus many
local restaurants and bars. This is where most safari drivers sleep.
