Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
USAMBARA MOUNTAINS
With their wide vistas, cool climate, winding paths and picturesque villages, the Usambaras
are one of northeastern Tanzania's delights. Rural life revolves around a cycle of bustling,
colourful market days that rotate from one village to the next, and is largely untouched by
the booming safari scene and influx of 4WDs in nearby Arusha. It's easily possible to spend
at least a week trekking from village to village or exploring with day walks.
The Usambaras, which are part of the ancient Eastern Arc chain, are divided into two
ranges separated by a 4km-wide valley. The western Usambaras, around Lushoto, are the
most accessible, with a better road network, and are quite heavily touristed these days, while
the eastern Usambaras, around Amani, are less developed. Both ranges are densely popu-
lated, with an average of more than 300 people per sq km. The main tribes are the Sambaa,
Kilindi, Zigua and Mbugu.
Although the climate is comfortable year-round, paths get too muddy for trekking during
the rainy season. The best time to visit is from July to October, after the rains and when the
air is clearest.
Amani Nature Reserve
This often-overlooked reserve is located west of Tanga in the heart of the eastern Usambaras.
It's a peaceful, lushly vegetated patch of montane forest humming with the sounds of rushing
water, chirping insects and singing birds, and is exceptionally rich in unique plant and bird
species - a highly worthwhile detour for those ornithologically or botanically inclined. For
getting around, there's a network of short walks along shaded forest paths that can be done
with or without a guide.
History
Although Amani was only gazetted as a nature reserve in 1997, research in the area began a
century earlier when the Germans established a research station and botanical gardens here.
Large areas of forest were cleared and numerous new species introduced. Within a few years
the gardens were the largest in Africa, totalling 304 hectares and containing between 600
and 1000 different species of plants, including many endemic species. Soon thereafter, ex-
ploitation of the surrounding forest began and the gardens began to decline. A sawmill was
started and a railway link was built connecting Zigi, about 12km below Amani, with the
main Tanga-Moshi line to facilitate timber transport to the coast.
During the British era, research shifted to Nairobi, and the railway was replaced by a road
linking Amani with Muheza. Many of the facilities at Amani were taken over by the nearby
government-run malaria research centre and the gardens fell into neglect.
In recent times, the real work at Amani has been done within the framework of the East
Usambara Conservation Area Management Programme, with funding from the Tanzanian
