Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
15th century, when Tongoni (which means 'Place of Ruins') - together with
Mafia, Kilwa and other now sleepy coastal settlements - was a major port in the
network of Swahili trading towns linking the gold, slave and ivory markets of
Africa with the Orient.
Tongoni's heyday was in the 15th century, when it had its own sultan and was
an inadvertent port of call for Vasco da Gama, whose ship ran aground here. By
the early 18th century, the settlement had declined to the point of nonexistence,
with Portuguese disruption of local trade networks and the fall of Mombasa. In
the late 18th century, it was resettled by Shirazis fleeing Kilwa (who named it
Sitahabu, or 'Better Here than There'), and experienced a brief revival, before
declining completely shortly thereafter.
Although most of Tongoni's pillars have long since toppled to the ground,
you can still see the recessed areas on some where decorative porcelain vases
and offering bowls were placed. There are also about two dozen more recent,
and largely unremarkable, tombs dating from the 18th or 19th century.
To get here, take any vehicle heading towards Pangani along the coastal road
and get out at the turn-off (marked by a rusty signboard). The ruins are about
1km further east on foot, on the far edge of the village (ask for
'magofu'
). It's
worth getting an early start, as finding a lift back in the afternoon can be diffi-
cult. Taxis from town charge from about Tsh15,000 for the round trip.
Muheza
Muheza is a scrappy junction town where the roads to Amani Nature Reserve and to Pan-
gani branch off the main Tanga highway. Although well inland, it's culturally very much
part of the coastal Tanga region, with a humid climate, strong Swahili influences and sur-
rounding landscapes marked by extensive sisal plantations broken by stands of palms.
Muheza's main market and trading area, dominated by rows of rickety wooden market
stalls and small corrugated metal-roofed houses, is about 1km uphill from the main high-
way.
GK Lodge
(r Tsh10,000) has clean, basic rooms and no food. It's 1.2km from the bus
stand: follow signs to Amani Nature Reserve; after crossing the railroad tracks, continue
along the Amani road for 500m to the signposted right-hand turn-off.
Transport to Amani leaves from the bus stand just off the Tanga road. There are two
buses daily to and from Amani, departing Muheza about 2pm (Tsh3000, two hours), and
Amani at 6am. There are connections to Tanga (Tsh2000, 45 minutes) throughout the day,
and direct daily buses in the morning to Lushoto (Tsh3000, three hours).
