Northeastern Tanzania - Tanzania - page 257

Around Tanga
AMBONI CAVES
Long the subject of local legend, these limestone caves (admission Tsh3000) are one of the
most extensive subterranean systems in East Africa and an intriguing excursion for anyone
with an interest in spelunking. Now home to thousands of bats, they were traditionally be-
lieved to house various spirits, and continue to be a place of worship and ritual. The caves
were originally thought to extend 200km or more, and are said to have been used by the
Kenyan Mau Mau during the 1950s as a hideout from the British. Although a 1994 survey
concluded that their extent was much smaller - with the largest of the caves studied only
900m long - rumours of them reaching all the way to Mombasa persist.
It's possible to visit a small portion of the cave network, which is quite interesting, once
you get past the litter at the entrance. Bring along a torch, and wear closed shoes to avoid
picking bat droppings off your feet afterwards.
The caves are about 8km northwest of Tanga off the Tanga-Mombasa road. Take a dalla-
dalla towards Amboni village and get off at the turn-off for the caves, near the forestry of-
fice. From here, it's 2.5km on foot to Kiomoni village; the caves stretch west of Kiomoni
along the Mkulumuzi River. Guides can be arranged locally or at the tourist office in Tanga.
GALANOS SULPHUR SPRINGS
If bending and crawling around the caves has left you feeling stiff in the joints, consider
finishing the day with a visit to these green, odorous sulphur springs nearby. They take their
name from a Greek sisal planter who was the first to recognise their potential for relaxation
after the rigours of a long day in the fields. Now, although still in use, they are quite unap-
pealing despite their purportedly therapeutic properties.
The unsignposted turn-off for the springs is along the Tanga-Mombasa road, about 2km
north of the turn-off for the caves, and just after crossing the Sigi River. From here, it's
about 2km further. Dalla-dallas from Tanga run as far as Amboni village, from where you'll
need to continue on foot.
PLACE OF RUINS
About 20km south of Tanga are the Tongoni ruins (admission Tsh3000;
8am-5pm) , set picturesquely between baobabs overlooking the mangrove-lined
coast. They include the crumbling remains of a mosque and about 20 overgrown
Shirazi pillar-style tombs, the largest collection of such tombs on the East Afric-
an coast. Both the mosque and the tombs are estimated to date from the 14th or