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I started taking tourists out, and the hotel boss liked me. Now, I no longer fish
for a living, I captain my own boat and I also captain the hotel dhow. The hotel
owners come to me when they have guests who want to take an excursion.
Would you say it is a hard life or a good one? For me, it is a good life, living
by the coast. If you are hungry, you can get something to eat [gesturing at the
sea]. There is just enough for what we need. But, it depends on your lifestyle. If
you want more, if you want to save up, it is difficult to put money aside. Me, I
am lucky, with my job now as captain, I am able to put some money aside, and
this is important because my son is starting Form 1. Others are not so lucky.
Do most people here in the village have a bank account? Not so many. Some
people go to town and open an account. But, then it is a problem. If you need
money for something, you don't have it. Some people still don't trust the banks,
they fear they will do something with their money. Others watch and see, when
they are convinced it is OK, if they have enough money that they don't need for
their daily needs, they go now to the banks.
Do you like taking tourists out? Yes, it is much easier than being a fisherman.
Much less risky. On the high sea, anything can happen, often we go out at night,
often we sit all day waiting for a catch. But, not everyone can make it with tour-
ism, there are only a few hotels who need boat captains. Most remain fishermen.
Tanga
POP 250,000
Tanga, a major industrial centre until the collapse of the sisal market, is Tanzania's second-
largest seaport and its third-largest town behind Dar es Salaam and Mwanza. Despite its
size, it's a pleasant-enough place with a sleepy, semicolonial atmosphere, wide streets filled
with bicyclists and motorcycles, and faded charm. While there's little reason to make a
special detour to visit, it makes a convenient stop en route to or from Mombasa, and is a
springboard to the beaches around Pangani.
The town centre is along the waterfront and easily covered on foot. About 1.5km south
of here (Tsh2000 in a taxi), and south of the railway tracks in the Ngamiani section, is the
bus station. About 2km east of town, reached by following Hospital Rd (which runs parallel
to the water) is the quiet, residential Ras Kazone section, with several hotels and eateries.
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