Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
existed from the 11th to 15th centuries and grew to perhaps 5000 people. It's named after
Harun, son of Mkame Ndume (
Click here
)
and, according to local tradition, just as cruel as
his father. Legend says the pillared structure next to the semi-intact Friday Mosque is his
tomb, but this is unlikely. From the highway, follow the dirt track 600m past the site office
and some 18th-century tombs (there was once a fort on the low hill here) from when the
Mazruis from Mombasa ruled this area.
There's no accommodation in Tumbe or nearby Konde. Dalla-dallas from Chake Chake
to Konde pass Chwaka and Tumbe (Tsh2000, two hours). From Wete, you'll have to change
vehicles in Konde for the final leg.
NGEZI VUMAWIMBI FOREST RESERVE
The dense and wonderfully lush forest at Ngezi is one of the last remaining patches of the
forest that once covered western Pemba. It's notable in that it resembles the highland rain-
forests of East Africa more than the lowland forests found on Zanzibar. The 2900-hectare
reserve has two nature trails tunnelling beneath the shady forest canopy, and off-trail walks
are allowed. All visits must be done with a naturalist guide, some of whom speak English.
Most visitors follow the Josh Trail (Tsh6000 per person), which takes under an hour and
is good for spotting birds and red colobus monkeys (only early in the morning and late in
the afternoon) and also passes an old sawmill. A highlight of the Toofik Trail (Tsh10,000),
which goes far deeper into the forest and normally takes five to seven hours, is the snake
pond, home to several slitherers, including spitting cobra.
Night walks
(Tsh10,000) are
also available; most participants are hoping to see Pemba scops owls, one of the island's
four endemic bird species.
The
visitor centre
(hikes can begin 7.30am-3.30pm) is 4km west of Konde on the
road to Kigomasha Peninsula. See Kigomasha for dalla-dalla details. A taxi from Konde
(ask around, eventually you'll find someone who will drive you) costs Tsh5000. Kervan
Saray will deliver its guests here for free.
KIGOMASHA
With good resorts on the peninsula's west shore and the beautiful palm-fringed
Vumawim-
bi beach
stretching along the east, Kigomasha Peninsula, in Pemba's northwestern corner,
has become the centre of Pemba's small tourist industry. Vumawimbi is an isolated place
(don't bring anything valuable and women shouldn't come alone) and you're unlikely to
have much company except for a few locals. A new resort is under development on the
north end of the beach, but for now bring food and drink with you.
Also not to be missed is
Ras Kigomasha lighthouse
at the peninsula's tip. Built in 1900,
it's still actively maintained by its keeper. Scale the tiny staircase (for a Tsh3000 donation)
for wonderful views.
