Zanzibar Archipelago - Tanzania - page 223

Dalla-dallas from Chake Chake to Pujini (Tsh1000, one hour) are infrequent and the ru-
ins are poorly signposted. A taxi from Chake Chake costs about Tsh30,000 return.
WAMBAA
Pemba's most exclusive property, Fundu Lagoon Resort ( 0774-438668;
www.fundulagoon.com ; s/d full board & nonmotorised activities from US$540/780, dis-
counts for long stays; mid-Jun-mid-Apr; ) is set on a low hillside overlooking
the sea near little Wambaa town. The luxurious tents, some with their own private plunge
pools, are tucked away amid the vegetation. Particularly notable is its bar, set over the water
on a long jetty. There's a spa and a PADI Five-Star dive operator here, primarily operating
around Misali and off Pemba's southern tip, plus plenty of other aquatic excursions from
paddling through mangroves to sunset dhow cruises. Children under 12 are not allowed.
KIWENI
Tranquil Kiweni, marked as Shamiani on some maps, is just off Pemba's southeastern
coast. It's a remote backwater island with undisturbed stretches of sand, quiet waterways
and a nesting ground for sea-turtle colonies. Offshore is some good snorkelling .
Pricey Pemba Lodge ( 0777-415551; www.pembalodge.com ; per person full board
US$220) , under the same management as Mnarani Beach Cottages in Nungwi ( Click
here ) , is the only accommodation in these parts. Its five stilted bungalows are attractively
rustic and free kayaks are available to explore the surrounding mangroves. Transfers cost
US$30 from Mkoani and US$60 from the airport.
MKOANI
Although it's Pemba's major port, Mkoani has managed to fight off all attempts at devel-
opment and remains a small and rather boring town; unless you like watching fishermen.
However, its great guesthouse is enough to redeem it and makes Mkoani a recommended
stop.
The friendly Ocean Panorama Hotel ( 0773-545418;
www.zanzibaroceanpanorama.com ; dm/s/tw/tr US$20/35/50/75; ) guesthouse, set up on
a hill overlooking the sea in the distance, has bright, clean rooms with decks and Zanzibari
beds. Manager Ali has lots of information on Pemba and arranges good value trips, includ-
ing snorkelling at Misali, Matumbini lighthouse (on Matumbi Makubwa island) or the old
wreck (between about October and March; when it's not too windy) at Ras Ufunguo. A full
island tour up to Kigomasha Peninsula is US$150 for six people and you can also sail in
their dhow. To get here, head left when exiting the port and walk 700m up the hill.
Panorama charges a hefty US$10 for lunch and dinner, though the food's pretty good.
Dining options in town are limited; best are the street stands by the port which serve night
and day.