Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the smaller, more traditional Twinkling Stars, which is an offshoot of Akhwan
Safaa. Many of the newer clubs have abandoned the traditional acoustic style in
favour of electronic equipment, although older musicians tend to look down on
this as an adulterated form of
taarab
. The performances are an event in them-
selves. In traditional clubs, men and women sit separately, with the women
decked out in their finest garb and elaborate hairstyles. Audience participation is
key, and listeners frequently go up to the stage to give money to the singer.
For an introduction to
taarab
music, stop by the
Zanzibar Serena Inn
(
024-223 2306, 024-223 3587;
www.serenahotels.com
) , where the Twinkling
Stars play on Tuesday and Friday evening on the verandah from about 6pm to
7.30pm. For something much livelier, head to the
Culture Musical Club
(Vuga
Rd) , with a classic old-style club atmosphere and rehearsals from about 7.30pm
to 9.30pm Monday to Friday. Akhwan Safaa has rehearsals several times
weekly from about 9.30pm in the area off Creek Rd near the traffic police; loc-
als can point you in the right direction. An excellent time to see
taarab
perform-
ances is during the
Festival of the Dhow Countries
(
Click here
)
in July. To or-
ganise traditional dance and drumming lessons, and buy CDs of local music,
contact the
Dhow Countries Music Academy
( 0777-416529;
www.zanzibarmusic.org
;
Mizingani Rd) , on the top floor of the Old Customs
House, next to the Palace Museum.
SHOPPING
Stone Town has wonderfully atmospheric craft shopping and, if you can sort your way
through some of the kitsch, there are some good buys to be found. Items to watch for in-
clude finely crafted Zanzibari chests, kanga (cotton wraps worn by women all over Tan-
zania),
kikoi
(the thicker striped or plaid equivalent worn by men on Zanzibar and in other
coastal areas), spices and handcrafted silver jewellery.
A good place to start is Gizenga St, which is lined with small shops and craft dealers. At
the western end of Forodhani Gardens are vendors selling woodcarvings, Maasai beaded
jewellery and other crafts.
Darajani Market
MARKET
The dark, narrow passageways of the chaotic Darajani market assault the senses, with occa-
sional whiffs of spices mixing with the stench of fish, the clamour of vendors hawking their
wares, neat, brightly coloured piles of fruits and vegetables, and dozens of shops selling
everything from plastic tubs to auto spares. It's just off Creek Rd, and at its best in the
morning before the heat and the crowds, when everything is still fresh.
