Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ZANZIBAR
POP 990,000
The winding alleyways are still there, and the carved doors. Forodhani Gardens still is the
place to go in the evenings, with the setting sun illuminating the scene. The east coast
beaches are as lovely as ever. But, Zanzibar has changed. It's due in part to the masses of
visitors who descend on the island during the high season. In part, it's due to the seemingly
endless proliferation of new hotels, most built with apparently no thought for the surround-
ing community and ecosystems. Whatever the reason, the sense of stepping back in time,
the island's once-legendary ability to transport the visitor through centuries and cultures, is
no longer there. Is the magic completely gone? Probably not, although it's certainly more
difficult to find. But, come and see for yourself. And, travel wisely. Not only do smart travel
choices matter, but here they could make the difference between Zanzibar's strangulation or
its survival.
PAPASI
In Zanzibar Town you will undoubtedly come into contact with street touts. In
Swahili they're known as
papasi
(ticks). They are not registered as guides with
the Zanzibar Tourist Corporation (ZTC), although they may carry (false) identi-
fication cards, and while a few can be helpful, others can be aggressive and irrit-
ating. The main places that you'll encounter them are at the ferry exit in Zanzibar
Town and in the Shangani area around Tembo House Hotel and the post office.
Many of the more annoying ones are involved with Zanzibar's drug trade and are
desperate for money for their next fix, which means you're just asking for trouble
if you arrange anything with them.
If you decide to use the services of an unlicensed tout, tell them where you
want to go or what you are looking for, and your price range. You shouldn't have
to pay anything additional, as many hotels pay commission. If they tell you your
hotel of choice no longer exists or is full, take it with a grain of salt, as it could
well be that they just want to take you somewhere where they know they'll get a
better commission.
Another strategy is to make your way out of the port arrivals area and head
straight for a taxi. This will cost you more, and taxi drivers look for hotel com-
missions as well, but most are legitimate and once you are 'spoken for', hassles
from touts usually diminish.
