Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
runs throughout the day between the eastern end of Kivukoni Front in Dar es Salaam and
Kigamboni village. Once on the other side, catch a dalla-dalla heading south and ask the
driver to drop you off at Mjimwema village (Tsh300) from where it's a 1km walk to Sun-
rise or Kipepeo. For Mikadi Beach, they can drop you directly at the entrance.
Bajajis
from
Kigamboni charge about Tsh3500 to Kipepeo and Sunrise, less to Mikadi Beach.
With your own car, an alternative route to/from the city is the approximately 27km stretch
via Kongowe, which is about 5km past Mbagala along the Kilwa Rd. It meets the Kigam-
boni road at Mjimwema village, just south of the Sunset/Kipepeo turn-off.
THE ZARAMO WORLD VIEW
The original inhabitants of the area around Dar es Salaam are the Zaramo,
known for their woodworking and for their creation beliefs. In the beginning,
according to the Zaramo, was Nyalutanga, the common mother from whom
springs forth all life and knowledge. Nyalutanga herself had no creator and no
husband, but rather emerged from the female earth, later bringing forth a line of
daughters, from whom all Zaramo are descended. Men fit into the picture as
nourishers of the female creative power, and as the source of the cultural qualit-
ies that complement women's biological contribution. Thus, while family lines
are continued through the mother, Zaramo children take the name of their fath-
er's mother's clan and are considered to inherit the cultural qualities of their
father.
The Zaramo believe that all life arises from death. Death is seen as part of the
natural continuum of life, as a transition rather than a transformation. The rituals
marking this transition extend into many areas. For example, Zaramo traditional
healers often place newly procured medicinal plants on compost heaps for sev-
eral days to gain potency. As the plants wither, they take on new powers, and a
place connected with death and decay (the compost heap) assumes the symbol-
ism of a place of regeneration.
For more, read
Blood, Milk and Death: Body Symbols and the Power of Re-
generation Among the Zaramo of Tanzania
by Marja-Liisa Swantz with Salome
Mjema and Zenya Wild, on which this text is based.
RAS KUTANI
This secluded cape, about 30km south of Dar es Salaam, offers water sports (there's snor-
kelling but no diving) and the chance for a tropical island-style getaway without actually
leaving the mainland. Nesting sea turtles also favour this section of coast, and both of the
following resorts are involved in conservation projects.
