Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
general, the easiest hiking will be along the inside of the river bends, where you're likely to find wildlife trails and
dry, non-sandy terrain that's free of vegetation tangles, slippery stones or large boulders.
After an exhausting 13km hike through the rough sand and boulders along the east bank, the
Sulphur Springs
Viewpoint
track joins the main route. If you're completely exhausted at this stage and can't handle the conditions,
this route can be used as an emergency exit from the canyon. If it's any encouragement, however, the going gets
easier as you move downstream, so why not head a further 2km to
Sulphur Springs
, set up camp and see how
you feel in the morning?
Sulphur Springs - more commonly called
Palm Springs
- is an excellent campsite with thermal sulphur pools
(a touch of paradise) to soothe your aching muscles. The springs, which have a stable temperature of 57°C, gush
up from the underworld at an amazing 30L per second and contain not only sulphur but also chloride and fluoride.
Legend has it that during WWI two German prisoners of war hid out at Sulphur Springs to escape internment.
One was apparently suffering from asthma and the other from skin cancer but thanks to the spring's healing
powers, both were cured. It's also said that the palm trees growing here sprang up from date pips discarded by
these two Germans.
The next section of the hike consists mostly of deep sand, pebbles and gravel. The most direct route through the
inside river bends requires hikers to cross the river several times. The
Table Mountain
formation lies 15km bey-
ond Sulphur Springs, and a further 15km on is the first short cut, which avoids an area of dense thorn scrub
known as
Bushy Corner
Offline map
. Around the next river bend, just upstream from the
Three Sisters
rock
formation, is a longer short cut past
Kanebis Bend
Offline map
up to
Kooigoedhoogte Pass
Offline map
. At
the top, you'll have a superb view of
Four Finger Rock
Offline map
, an impressive rock tower consisting of
four thick pinnacles (though they more closely resemble a cow's udder than fingers).
After descending to the river, you'll cross to the west bank and start climbing over yet another short cut (al-
though you can also follow the river bend). At the southern end of this pass, on the west bank of the river, lies the
grave
of Lieutenant Thilo von Trotha, who was killed here after a 1905 confrontation between the Germans and
the Nama.
The final 25km into Ai-Ais, which can be completed in one long day, follows an easy but sandy and rocky
route. South of von Trotha's grave, the canyon widens out and becomes drier. Be advised that, during the end of
winter, the final 15km are normally completely dry, so you will need to carry sufficient water.
Sleeping
Accommodation inside the park must be prebooked through the NWR office in Wind-
hoek.
Hobas Camp Site $
(campsite N$125; )
Administered by NWR, this pleasant and well-shaded camping
ground near the park's northern end is about 10km from the main viewpoints. Facilities
are clean, and there's a kiosk and swimming pool, but no restaurant or petrol station.
CAMPGROUND
