Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Getting There & Away
Palmwag is situated on the D3706, 157km from Khorixas and 105km from Sesfontein.
Coming from the south, you'll cross the Red Line, 1km south of Palmwag Lodge.
SESFONTEIN
Damaraland's most northerly outpost is almost entirely encircled by the Kaokoveld, and is
somewhat reminiscent of a remote oasis in the middle of the Sahara. Fed by six springs
(hence its name), the town was established as a military outpost in 1896 following a
rinderpest outbreak. A barracks was added in 1901, and four years later a fort was con-
structed to control cattle disease, arms smuggling and poaching. This arrangement lasted
until 1909, when the fort appeared to be redundant and was requisitioned by the police,
who used it until the outbreak of WWI. In 1987 the fort was restored by the Damara Ad-
ministration (regional government) and converted into a comfortable lodge, which is now
one of the most unusual accommodation options in the whole of Namibia.
For adventurers who dream of uncharted territory, the spectacular and little-known
Otjitaimo Canyon lurks about 10km north of the main road, along the western flanks of
the north-south mountain range east of Sesfontein. To get here would involve a major ex-
pedition on foot, but if you're up for it, pick up the topographic sheets from the Office of
the Surveyor General in Windhoek, pack lots of water (at least 4L per person per day),
and expect unimaginable scenery and solitude.
Ever fancy spending the night in a colonial fort out in the middle of the desert? At Fort
Sesfontein ( 065-685034; www.fort-sesfontein.com ; r per person N$950; ) you and
43 other guests can live out all your Lawrence of Arabia fantasies. Accommodation is ba-
sic but incredibly atmospheric, and there's a good restaurant that serves German-inspired
(what a surprise!) dishes.
The road between Palmwag and Sesfontein is good gravel, and you'll only have prob-
lems if the Hoanib River is flowing. Unless it has been raining, the gravel road from Ses-
fontein to Opuwo is accessible to all vehicles.
The Kaokoveld
Often described as one of the last true wildernesses in Southern Africa, the Kaokoveld is
largely devoid of roads and is crossed only by sandy tracks laid down by the SADF dec-
ades ago. In this harsh wilderness of arid conditions, wildlife has been forced to adapt in
miraculous ways - consider the critically endangered desert elephant, which has espe-
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