Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Of its three main entrances, Messum is best accessed along the Messum River from the
D2342 west of the Brandberg. Note that you must stick to the tracks at all times, espe-
cially if you choose either route involving the fragile lichen plains of the Dorob National
Park. If you are driving in this area, you will require the relevant topographic sheets,
which are available from the Office of the Surveyor General in Windhoek.
LICHEN FIELDS
Neither plants nor animals, lichens actually consist of two components - an alga and a fungus - and perhaps
provide nature's most perfect example of symbiosis between two living things. The fungus portion absorbs mois-
ture from the air, while the alga contains chlorophyll, which produces sugar and starch to provide carbohydrate
energy. Both algae and fungi are cryptogams, which means that they lack the sex organs necessary to produce
flowers and seeds, and are therefore unable to reproduce as plants do.
Lichens come in many varieties, including crustose, which form orange, black, brown or pale-green ring pat-
terns on rocks, and foliose, which are actually free-standing. In fact, the gravel plains of the Namib Desert support
the world's most extensive fields of foliose lichen, which provide stability for the loose soil in this land of little
vegetation. These fields are composed mostly of stationary grey lichen, free-standing black lichen and the rarer
orange lichen, which is surprisingly bushy and can grow up to 10cm high.
By day, the lichen fields very much resemble thickets of dead, shrivelled shrubs. However, when heavy fogs
roll in during the night-time, the dull grey and black fields slowly uncurl, and burst into blue, green and orange
blooms. Water droplets are absorbed by the fungus component of the lichen, which also provides the root system
and physical rigidity. At the first light of dawn, however, the alga kicks in with its contribution by using the water
droplets, light and carbon dioxide to photosynthesise carbohydrates for both itself and the fungus.
The best places to observe lichen fields are southwest of Messum Crater, in scattered areas along the salt road
between Swakopmund and Terrace Bay, and near the start of the Welwitschia Drive, east of Swakopmund.
Please keep in mind that lichens are incredibly fragile and slow growing, and the slightest disturbance can crush
them. Once that happens, it may take 40 or 50 years before any regeneration is apparent. In particular, you should
never thoughtlessly drive off-road, and always follow pre-existing tracks when you're bush driving.
TWYFELFONTEIN & AROUND
067
Twyfelfontein (Doubtful Spring), at the head of the grassy Aba Huab Valley, is one of the
most extensive rock-art galleries on the continent.
In the ancient past, this perennial spring most likely attracted wildlife, creating a para-
dise for the hunters who eventually left their marks on the surrounding rocks. Animals,
animal tracks and geometric designs are well represented here, though there are surpris-
ingly few human figures. Many of the engravings depict animals that are no longer found
