Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
west of the city centre, and Klein Windhoek, to the east. The following year, people were forcibly relocated to
these areas, which effectively became haphazard settlements. In the early 1930s streets were laid out in the Main
Location and the area was divided into regions. Each subdivision within these regions was assigned to an ethnic
group and referred to by that name (eg Herero, Nama, Owambo, Damara), followed by a soulless numerical refer-
ence.
In the 1950s the Windhoek municipal council, with encouragement from the South African government (which
regarded Namibia as a province of South Africa), decided to 'take back' Klein Windhoek and consolidate all 'loc-
ation' residents into a single settlement northwest of the main city. There was strong opposition to the move, and
in early December 1959 a group of Herero women launched a protest march and boycott against the city govern-
ment. On 10 December unrest escalated into a confrontation with the police, resulting in 11 deaths and 44 serious
injuries. Frightened, the roughly 4000 residents of the Main Location submitted and moved to the new settlement,
which was ultimately named Katutura. In Herero the name means 'we have no permanent place', though it can
also be translated as 'the place we do not want to settle'.
Today in independent Namibia, Katutura is a vibrant Windhoek suburb - Namibia's Soweto - where poverty
and affluence brush elbows. The town council has extended municipal water, power and telephone services to
most areas of Katutura, and has also established the colourful and perpetually busy Soweto Market, where traders
sell just about anything imaginable. Unlike its South African counterparts, Katutura is relatively safe by day, as-
suming you can find a trustworthy local who can act as a guide.
The tourist office can book township tours but even better is
Katu Tours
( 081 3032856;
www.katuturatours.com
;
tours per person N$350)
, which offers guided tours by bike. You get a good taste of
township life and the chance to meet plenty of locals; it also includes dropping into Penduka, where local women
produce a range of handicrafts and textiles. Tours depart at 8am from Katutura and take 3½ hours.
Cardboard Box Backpackers $
( 228994;
www.cardboardbox.com.na
; 15 Johann Albrecht St; campsite/dm N$70/95,
r from N$300; )
Hostels are hard to come by in this country but 'the Box' has
been doing it for years, with a rep as one of Windhoek's wildest backpackers. It has a
fully stocked bar and swimming pool to cool off in, and travellers have a tough time leav-
ing this oasis of affordable luxury. If you do decide to motivate yourself, the city centre is
just a short walk away, and the excellent on-site Travel Shop gives useful information and
can help sort out your future travel plans. Rates include free coffee and pancakes in the
morning and there are free pickups from the Intercape bus stop.
BACKPACKERS
Olive Grove $$$
( 239199;
www.olivegrove-namibia.com
; 20 Promenaden St; s/d standard N$735/
1260, luxury N$1130/2030, ste from N$2000; )
Refined elegance is the order of
the day at this boutique hotel in Klein Windhoek, which features 10 individually decor-
BOUTIQUE HOTEL
