Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
LAKE NGAMI
Arriving at the shores of Lake Ngami in 1849, Dr David Livingstone witnessed a magnifi-
cent expanse of water teeming with animals and birdlife. However, for reasons not com-
pletely known, the lake disappeared entirely a few years later, reappearing briefly towards
the end of the 19th century, a pattern that has continued.
Lake Ngami lacks an outflow and can only be filled by an overflow from the Okavango
Delta down the Nhabe River. Following heavy rains in 1962, the lake reappeared once
more, covering an area of 250 sq km. Although the lake was present for nearly 20 years, it
mysteriously disappeared again in 1982, only to reappear once more in 2000. Since then,
heavy rains have kept the lake partially filled at various times, though it's anyone's guess
when it will dry up again.
Following heavy rains, the lake attracts flocks of flamingos, ibises, pelicans, eagles,
storks, terns, gulls and kingfishers. Although there is no accommodation around the lake,
unofficial camping is possible along the lakeshore, though you will need to be entirely
self-sufficient.
All (unsigned) tracks heading south from the sealed road between Toteng and Sehithwa
lead to the lake.
GCWIHABA (DROTSKY'S) CAVE
In 1932 a group of San showed Gcwihaba (meaning 'hyena's hole') to a farmer named
Martinus Drotsky, who humbly decided to name the cave after himself. Although Drotsky
is most likely the first European to have explored the cave, legend has it that the fab-
ulously wealthy Hendrik Matthys van Zyl stashed a portion of his fortune here in the late
1800s.
The interior of the cave is famous for its 10m-long stalagmites and stalactites, which
were formed by dripping water that seeped through the ground and dissolved the dolomite
rock. The cave is home to large colonies of Commerson's leaf-nosed bats (which have a
wingspan of up to 60cm) and common slit-faced bats (distinguished by their long ears),
which, although harmless, can make your expedition a hair-raising experience.
Gcwihaba (Drotsky's) Cave
(GPS S 20°01.302', E 21°21.275')
is not developed for
tourism: the interior of the cave is completely dark, and there are no lights or route mark-
ings. It is possible to walk (about 1km) through the cave from one entrance to the other,
but venturing far inside the cave is only for those with proper lighting and some experien-
ce and confidence; carry with you several strong torches (flashlights), as well as emer-
gency light sources such as matches and cigarette lighters. The main entrance is signpos-
ted from the end of the track, and is near a noticeboard. The cave is permanently open and
there is no admission charge.
