Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 7549 4669; www.kubuisland.com ; Lekhubu, GPS: S20°53.460', E25°49.318'; camp-
site per adult/child P100/50) This sprawling campground has 14 sites and is one of Bot-
swana's loveliest, with baobabs as a backdrop to most campsites, many of which have
sweeping views of the pan. There are bucket showers and pit toilets. There was, however,
a rumour that the campsite will be relocated away from the island due to concerns over
the growing impact of tourism.
Getting There & Away
Access to Kubu Island involves negotiating a maze of grassy islets and salty bays. In-
creased traffic has now made the route considerably clearer, but drivers still need a 4WD
and a compass or GPS equipment. The island can be difficult to reach after rains.
From the Nata-Maun highway, the track starts near Zoroga (GPS: S 20°10.029', E
25°56.898'), about 24km west of Nata. After about 72km, the village of Thabatshukudu
(GPS: S 20°42.613', E 25°47.482') will appear on a low ridge. This track then skirts the
western edge of a salt pan for 10.3km before passing through a veterinary checkpoint. Just
under 2km further south, a track (17km) heads southeast to the northern end of Kubu.
From the Francistown-Rakops Rd, turn north at the junction for Letlhakane and pro-
ceed 25km until you reach Mmatshumo village. About 21km further north is a veterinary
checkpoint. After another 7.5km, an 18km track heads northeast to the southern end of
Kubu. This turn-off (GPS: S 20°56.012', E 25°40.032') is marked by a small cairn.
DRIVING SAFELY ON THE PANS
Prospective drivers should keep in mind that salt pans can have a mesmerising effect, and even create a sense of
unfettered freedom. Once you drive out onto the salt, remember that direction, connection, reason and common
sense appear to dissolve. Although you may be tempted to speed off with wild abandon into the white and empty
distance, exercise caution and restrain yourself. You should be aware of where you are at all times by using a map
and compass (GPS units are not foolproof).
As a general rule, always follow the tracks of other drivers - these tracks are a good indication that the route is
dry. In addition, never venture out onto the pans unless you're absolutely sure the salty surface and the clay be-
neath are dry. Foul-smelling salt means a wet and potentially dangerous pan, which is very similar in appearance
and texture to wet concrete. When underlying clay becomes saturated, vehicles can break through the crust and
become irretrievably bogged. If you do get bogged and have a winch, anchor the spare wheel or the jack - any-
thing to which the winch may be attached - by digging a hole and planting if firmly in the clay. Hopefully, you'll
be able to anchor it better than the pan has anchored the vehicle.
It is important to stress that to explore the pans properly and independently requires more of a 4WD expedition
than a casual drive. Lost travellers are frequently rescued from the pans, and there have been a number of fatalit-
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