Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
PADSTOW & AROUND
TOP OF CHAPTER
Rock & Polzeath
Across the estuary from Padstow is the exclusive enclave of
Rock
, now notorious as one of
Cornwall's priciest postcodes thanks to an influx of cash-rich city-folk (hence the area's
bevy of disparaging nicknames: Cornwall's St-Tropez, Kensington-on-Sea, etc). The vil-
lage has received extra attention thanks to the arrival of celebrity seafood chef Nathan Out-
law, whose flagship restaurant has recently scooped its second Michelin star.
It's a far cry from the sleepy seaside backwater recalled so fondly by poet John Betje-
man, who regularly holidayed in the area between the 1930s and 1960s. The coastline and
countryside around Rock featured in many of his poems, notably in
Trebetherick
, while in
his poetic autobiography
Summoned by Bells
, he recounts the delights of arriving here on
the coastal railway (now redeveloped as the Camel Trail).
While it's certainly changed, Betjeman's Rock hasn't quite disappeared. The dune-
backed white sands of
Daymer Bay
are as glorious as ever, and outside the main holiday sea-
son between June and August, often largely deserted. Just along the coast is
Polzeath
, the
area's main surfing beach and a lively location for some beach-lounging or adrenalin-
fuelled outdoor activities. It's also worth walking inland to the quaint church of
St Enodoc
,
where Betjeman was buried on a drizzly Cornish day in May 1984.
In season, the best way to visit Rock is aboard the Black Tor Ferry (
Click here
)
from
Padstow.
Activities
Era Adventures
( 01208-862963;
www.era-adventures.co.uk
)
One of the best multi-activity operators on the north
coast, offering packages covering coasteering, surfing, sea-kayaking and guided mountain
biking. The guides all have a background in lifeguarding or medical training, so you'll be
in safe hands. It's based down a lane from Polzeath Village, signed to Valley Caravan Park
& Era Adventures.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
