Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
and just under a mile later make a right onto the New Road Toll Road , a scenic route that sweeps through
pine forests and round u-bends, revealing stretches of shore. (To avoid the toll, turn right onto the A39 for a
second gear descent down the infamous, 1:4 Porlock Hill; expect hairpin bends, escape lanes and 'try your
brakes' signs). Park and wander Porlock 's shopping street, before driving down to Porlock Weir for a
beach-side stroll and lunch at the Bottom Ship. Next, drive up the lane between the pub and the cafe on the Weir
- it cuts sharply right, signed Worthy and Ashley Combe. At the white gate below the thatched stone arch, pay
your £2. A bouncing road now climbs beside a wooded stream, sea glimpses emerge below. At the A39, motor to-
wards Lynmouth through a moorland plateau framed by the sea, wind-bent trees and tufted grass. Countis-
bury Hill plunges down; a cliff-clinging, brake-burner descent. Signs speak volumes: 'Rockfalls', '12% gradi-
ent', 'Cyclists Advised to Walk'. Stroll beside Lynmouth's harbour , discovering the town's tragic, flood-re-
lated past at the Memorial Hall. Next take the A39 towards Lynton, via Watersmeet - another first- and second-
gear ascent, which hugs the steep-sided and mossy gorge. At
Watersmeet stop for the half-mile stroll to the
waterfalls. Next drive up to
Lynton ; the Vanilla Pod is an ideal spot for supper.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Porlock & Around
POP 2350
The small village of Porlock is one of the prettiest on Exmoor's coast. The thatched cot-
tages lining its main street is framed on one side by the sea, on the other by houses cling-
ing to the steep slope behind. Winding lanes lead to the picturesque quay at Porlock Weir,
a collection of pubs, shops and hotels, 2 miles to the west.
Coleridge's famous poem Kubla Khan was written during a brief sojourn in Porlock
(helped along by a healthy slug of laudanum and a vicious head cold), and the villages are
popular with tourists, as well as walkers hiking the South West Coast Path and Coleridge
Way.
Sights & Activities
Porlock Weir
Porlock Weir's granite quay curves around a pebble beach backed by pubs, fishermen's
storehouses and seasonal stores. A lock gate leads to Turkey Island, where a row of
thatched cottages sit encamped on the shore - here back gardens merge into the beach.
The weir has been around for almost 1000 years (it's named in the Domesday Book as
'Portloc') and boasts stirring views across the Vale of Porlock. It's a popular lunch spot,
and also the springboard for some excellent walks. An especially scenic section of coast
HARBOUR
 
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