Side Trips from Dublin - Dublin - page 149

worst tropical storm to hit Ireland in recent memory. The wild Irish
salmon in caper-and-herb butter is fabulous, as is the white sole. And
whatever you do, don't miss the Halumi cheese kabobs—conversa-
tion-stopping grilled Greek goat's cheese. On the other hand, the nut
kabobs, one of several vegetarian entrees, are unnecessarily austere.
1 Coliemore Rd., Dalkey center, County Dublin. & 01/284-9399. Reservations rec-
ommended. Main courses € 10- € 23 ($12-$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat 6-11pm;

Sun 4-9:30pm. DART: Dalkey.
PUBS
P. McCormack and Sons This popular pub offers three distinc-
tive atmospheres. The main bar has an old-world feel, with globe
lamps, stained-glass windows, books and jugs on the shelves, and lots
of nooks and crannies for a quiet drink. In the sky-lit, plant-filled
conservatory area, classical music fills the air, and outdoors you'll find
a festive courtyard beer garden. The pub grub here is top-notch, with
a varied buffet table of lunchtime salads and meats. 67 Lower Mount-
town Rd. (off York Rd.), Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin. & 01/280-5519.
The Purty Kitchen Housed in a building that dates from 1728,
this old pub has a homey atmosphere, with an open brick fireplace,
cozy alcoves, a large fish mural, and pub poster art on the walls.
There's always something going on—be it a session of Irish tradi-
tional music in the main bar area, blues upstairs in the Loft, or a DJ
spinning dance music. Call ahead for entertainment details. Old Dun-
leary Rd., Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin. & 01/284-3576. No cover for traditional
music; cover € 6- € 8 ($7.20-$9.60) for blues in the Loft.

2 Dublin's Northern Suburbs
Dublin's northern suburbs make a convenient base to Dublin Inter-
national Airport, and they're also home to a delightful assortment
of castles, historic buildings, gardens, and other attractions. In addi-
tion, the residential suburbs of Drumcondra and Glasnevin offer
many good lodgings.
Just north of Dublin, the picturesque suburbs of Howth and
Malahide offer panoramic views of Dublin Bay, beautiful hillside
gardens, and many fine seafood restaurants. Best of all, they are eas-
ily reached on the DART. Farther north along the coast, but only 20
minutes from Dublin Airport, lies the bustling and attractive harbor
town of Skerries . Skerries is a convenient and appealing spot to
spend your first or last night in Ireland; or stay longer and explore
all this area has to offer, including a resident colony of gray seals and
the lowest annual rainfall in Ireland.