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and trendy urbanites. Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, S. William St., Dublin 2.
& 01/674-6712.
Davy Byrnes Referred to as a “moral pub” by James Joyce in
Ulysses, this imbibers' landmark has drawn poets, writers, and liter-
ature lovers ever since. It dates from 1873, when Davy Byrnes first
opened the doors. He presided for more than 50 years, and visitors
can still see his likeness on one of the turn-of-the-20th-century
murals hanging over the bar. 21 Duke St. (off Grafton St.), Dublin 2. & 01/
677-5217. www.davybyrnes.com.
Doheny and Nesbitt The locals call this Victorian-style pub
simply “Nesbitt's.” The place houses two fine old “snugs”—small
rooms behind the main bar where women could have a drink out of
the sight of men in days of old—and a restaurant. 5 Lower Baggot St.,
Dublin 2. & 01/676-2945.
The Long Hall This is one of the city's most photographed pubs,
with a beautiful Victorian decor of filigree-edged mirrors, polished
dark woods, and traditional snugs. The hand-carved bar is said to be
the longest counter in the city. 51 S. Great George's St., Dublin 2. & 01/
475-1590.
The Mercantile Try for one of the comfy booths in the back of
this ultratrendy watering hole, which draws a mixed crowd of locals
and in-the-know out-of-towners. Despite being very big, it's always
buzzing and tends to get overjammed on weekends, so midweek
nights are best. U2 members The Edge and Larry Mullen are regu-
lars. Dame St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-0522.
Neary's Adjacent to the back door of the Gaiety Theatre, this cel-
ebrated enclave is a favorite with stage folk and theatergoers. Its
trademarks are the pink-and-gray marble bar and the brass hands
that support the globe lanterns adorning the entrance. 1 Chatham St.,
Dublin 2. & 01/677-7371 or 01/677-8596.
Palace Bar This old charmer is decorated with local memora-
bilia, cartoons, and paintings that tell the story of Dublin through
the years. 21 Fleet St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-9290.
River Club Converted from an old merchant's warehouse, this
wine bar-cum-supper club combines soaring ceilings, an enviable
position overlooking the river, and contemporary furnishings for an
overall feeling of easygoing sophistication. It's a favorite of Ireland's
film glitterati for a late drink, so don't be surprised to spy author-
screenwriter Roddy Doyle, Pierce Brosnan, or director Jim Sheridan.
Ha'penny Theatre, 48 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2. & 01/677-2382. www.riverclub.ie.
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