Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
411
Kuar
With its cushioned mini-amphitheater facing a giant, shor eline view of the bay,
Kuar is cer tainly the most av ant-garde of U shuaia's nightspots. The metal bar counter
goes well with the ironclad menus, and the decor is a hip arrangement of chunky wooden
furniture, colored-glass beading, and wrought-iron bar stools, in which design definitely
trumps comfort. The bar brews its own beer, and patrons can view the fermenting tanks
through a glass panel beneath the dining room. The restaurant offers standard fare (main
courses $12-$22/£8.20-£15), but its main attraction is the bar with r egular live music
and theater performances. And here is the ultimate compliment—the toilets are reassur-
ingly clean and immaculate. The bar is located 2km (1
1
/
4
miles) east of the city center .
It's open Tuesday to Sunday from 5pm until 2am.
Av. Perito Moreno 2232.
&
2901/437396.
Saint Christopher
The location couldn 't be better—right on the water front with
fabulous views of the bay and mountains, fr om the large windows that wrap around the
entire building. Yet, like its namesake—the rusting hulk in the bay (a foundered ship)—
the Saint Christopher has a cer tain worn-down, roadhouse feel. The decor has cer tainly
seen better days. Yet this is
the
place, in these parts, for a late-night drink, dance, or meal
(main courses $8-$13/£5.40-£8.80). A liv e band usually plays on w eekends, and the
place fills up with young Argentines looking to live it up and sing along to some popular
rock nacional.
It's open daily fr om 11am until 4am (until 5am F
ri-Sat).
Maipú 822.
&
2901/422423.
AE, MC, V.
Excursions Around Ushuaia
One of the most intriguing destinations around Ushuaia is the
Estancia Harberton,
the
first ranch founded in Tierra del Fuego. Now run as a museum, it affor ds a fascinating
glimpse into the ar ea's pioneering past. The tour begins with a walk thr ough a small
nature reserve, where the guides discuss, in good E nglish, the differ ent plants fr om the
area. The
estancia
's missionary founders are buried in the graveyard, and nearby are some
reconstructed houses used b y the original nativ es. Just as inter esting is the mothballed
shearing shed, a mar velous step back in time to when the
estancia
was a thriving sheep
farm. There is also a curious natural histor y museum of marine life bones and fossils.
(
Note:
To visit the museum, you must make reservations in advance; it's not included in
the ordinary tour.) The ranch is located on the shor e of the B eagle Channel, accessible
by road or boat. The entrance fee is $9 (£6.10). M ost travel agencies in to wn provide
transportation to the
estancia,
90km (56 miles) from Ushuaia, for an average cost of $65
(£44) per person, plus the entrance fee, provided you are among a group of four or more.
13
A Ride in the Park
If you don't feel like walking but still want to take in the sights at Parque Nacional
Tierra Del Fuego, you can ride
El Tren del Fin del Mundo,
a vapor locomotive
replica of the train used to shuttle prisoners to the forest to chop wood (
&
2901/
431600;
www.trendelfindelmundo.com.ar). It can be very touristy. The train
departs from its station (with souvenir shop and cafe) near the park entrance three
times daily. Just go one-way; a return trip is tediously slow. And don't bother with
first class—it's not worth a light snack and souvenir. The 1-hour, 50-minute round-
trip journey costs $30 (£20) for adults, $43 (£29) for first class, $7 (£4.75) for passen-
gers 4 to 14, and free for children 3 and under.
