Travel Reference
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enclosures and wooden platforms. Stairs are in the style of a fire escape, leading you down
to a second denlike common r oom with more couches and mattresses. Simple, modern,
and attractive, this hotel also boasts a good central location with a gr eat view.
Gobernador Paz 1410, U shuaia. & /fax 2901/437576. w ww.macondohouse.com. 7 units . $115 (£78)
double. Rates include c ontinental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Room ser vice; laundry service;
free Internet and Wi-Fi; TV room.
Inexpensive
Galeazzi-Basily B&B Value Sixteen years ago, Frances Basily's hospitality so o ver-
whelmed an American houseguest that he rav ed she should star t a bed-and-br eakfast.
Twenty minutes after he had left, F rances received a knock on the door , and it was two
strangers inquiring about a r oom, recommended by the insistent American. “ They had
prices and everything! What could I do?” she asks. S ince then, Frances and her husband
Alejandro have been receiving a steady stream of guests, some lodging in the family home
and others in some w ell-appointed cabins out back kno wn as the “Aves del Sur” cabins.
The house itself is tall, with a picket fence out front guarding a small forest of beech trees.
A wooden walkway leads you into a comfortable, if somewhat worn, suburban home of
white walls, plants, family photos, and a long dining r oom table. The house r ooms are
small and basic and a little gloomy . They offer two single beds and a shar ed bathroom.
The cabins are much more spacious with lots mor e light. Yet you do not come her e for
simple luxur y—what y ou get instead is a much mor e elusiv e sense of w elcome and
belonging. Everyone in the family speaks per fect English, and they 're all v ery engaging
and helpful. The kitchen is accessible, as is the living r oom sofa and TV, and I nternet
is free.
Gob. Valdez 323, Ushuaia. & 2901/423213. www.avesdelsur.com.ar. 5 shared units. $55 (£37) double;
$95 (£64) cabin for up to 4. No credit cards. Amenities: Lounge/TV room; bike rental; free Internet; use
of kitchen.
WHERE TO DINE
Here, king crab rules, and you'll find it on all menus, along with other ex cellent seafood
dishes, such as sea bass and mussels. In general, dining out is much pricier here compared
to the rest of the countr y. A dozen cafes are on San Martín, between Godoy and Rosas,
all of which offer sandwiches and quick meals. The most popular among them is Tante
Sara, San Martín 137 ( & 2901/435005 ), where a two-course meal of salad and ravioli
or gnocchi costs $8 (£5.40). A block away , the Tante Sara Café is the place to sip coffee
with locals in the afternoon. A fe w of the hotels in the ar ea also hav e fine r estaurants,
including Los Cauquenes ( & 2901/441300 ) and Tierra de Leyendas, Calle Sin Nom-
bre 2387, Ushuaia ( & 2901/443565; p. 405). It is wise to book ahead.
Chez Manu Finds SEAFOOD/FRENCH The Chez M anu offers gr eat food and
even better vie ws, seen thr ough a gener ous supply of windo ws. A French expat, Manu,
runs the place. True to his roots, he has crafted a French-style menu based on fresh local
ingredients. Dishes include black hake cooked with anise and herbs, or F uegian lamb.
Before taking your order, ask your server to describe the catch of the day, usually a cold-
water fish fr om the bay, such as abadejo or merluza fr om Chile. S ide dishes include a
delicious eggplant ratatouille, made with extra-virgin oliv e oil and herbes de P rovence.
Service is so-so and the decor could use an update.The wine list includes several excellent
regional dry whites.
Av. Luis Fernando Martial 2135. & 2970/432253. www.chezmanu.com. Main courses $14-$26 (£9.45-
£18). AE, MC, V. Daily noon-2pm and 8-11:30pm.
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