Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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Paine G rande M ountain Lodge:
This
hostal
-like “lodge ” r eplaces the old
refugio
Pehoé, at the busiest intersection in the park. It is the hub for several of the trail heads
to the park administration center, Glacier Grey, and French Valley, as well as the dock-
ing site for the catamaran. U tilitarian in style, the
hostal
has 60 beds, two lounges, and a
cafeteria that can ser ve 120 people. D ay walks to G lacier Grey and French Valley can be
taken from here. Call
&
61/412742;
or book online at contact@verticepatagonia.cl.
Camping in Torres del Paine
Torres del P aine has a w ell-designed campground system with fr ee and concession-r un
sites. All
refugios
have a campgr ound, too, and these and other concession sites charge
about $15 (£10) per person, which includes hot sho wers, clean bathr ooms, and an
indoor dining area in which to escape bad w eather and eat under a r oof. The site at Las
Torres provides barbecues and firewood. Free campgrounds are run by CONAF, and they
can get a little dingy , with deplorable outhouses. B eginning in M arch, mice become a
problem for campers, so always leave food well stored or hanging from a tree branch. The
JLM hiking map (av ailable at ev ery bookstore, airport, kiosk, and trav el agency, and at
the park entrance) denotes which campgrounds are free and which charge a fee.
TRAILS IN TORRES DEL PAINE
Torres del Paine has something for everyone, from easy, well-trammeled trails to remote
walks through relatively people-free wilderness. Which path you choose depends on how
much time you have and what kind of walking you're up for. Pick up one of
JLM's Tor-
res del Paine maps
(sold ev erywhere), or do wnload a map fr om
www.torresdelpaine.
com
to begin planning your itinerary. Walking times shown below are average.
12
Long-Haul Overnight Hikes
The Circuit
The Circuit is a spectacular, long-haul backpacking trip that takes hikers
around the entir e Paine Massif. It can be done in two ways: with the W included or
without. Including the W, you'll need 8 to 11 days; without it, fr om 4 to 7 days. The
Circuit is less traveled than the W because it's longer and requires that you camp out at
least twice. I don't recommend doing this trail if y ou have only 4 or 5 days. This trail is
for serious backpackers only, because it involves several difficult hikes up and down steep,
rough terrain and o ver fallen tr ee tr unks. You'll be r ewarded for y our effor t, however,
with dazzling vie ws of terrain that v aries fr om grassy meado ws and winding riv ers to
thick virgin beech for est, snowcapped peaks, and, best of all, the aw e-inspiring view of
Glacier Grey, seen from atop the J ohn Garner Pass. If you're a recreational hiker with a
4- to 6-hour hike tolerance lev el, you'll want to sleep in all the major campgr ounds or
refugios.
Always do this trail counter clockwise for easier ascents and with the scener y
before you. If you're here during the high season and want to get away from crowds, you
might contemplate walking the first portion of this trail, beginning at Laguna Azul. This
is the old trail, and it more or less parallels the Circuit, but on the other side of the river,
passing the gaucho post La Victorina, the only remaining building of an old
estancia.
At
Refugio Dickson, you'll have to cross the river, in the
refugio
's dinghy, for $4 (£2.70). To
get to Laguna A zul, you'll need to hitchhike or arrange priv ate transportation. Do not
underestimate the isolation of most of this hike—sno wstorms, injuries, having minimal
food, a lot can go wr ong on this trek so please be fully pr epared.
Approx. 60km (37 miles) t otal. 7-10 da ys. Beginning at Laguna Amar ga or Host ería Las Torres. Terrain
ranges from easy to difficult.
