Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
393
only on the 9:30am boat, r eturning at 6:30pm fr om mid-November to March 15. The
boat fills up quickly, so try to be there early; it's first-come, first-served.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE IN TORRES DEL PAINE
Hotels & Hosterías
Explora Hotel S alto Chic o
Moments
Explora in P atagonia has garner ed
more fame than any other hotel in Chile, and deser vedly so. It's a one-stop shop for an
unforgettable experience in Patagonia. Few hotels in the world offer as stunning a vie w
as does Explora, perched above the milky, turquoise waters of Lago Pehoé and facing the
dramatic granite amphitheater of the Paine massif. It is terribly expensive, but worth the
splurge if you can afford it. Explora's style is comfortable elegance, and its contemporary
interiors belie the rather bland modernist exterior: softly curving blond-wood walls built
entirely from native deciduous beech. A band of pictur e windows wraps around the full
front of the building, and ther e are large windows in each room. The crisp guest rooms
are accented with Spanish checkered linens, handsome slate-tiled bathrooms, and warm-
ing racks for dr ying gear. E xplora r ecently expanded to include 20 ne w guest r ooms,
meaning it is easier now to get a reservation than before, but the hotel has, in the process,
lost a bit of the intimacy it had with just 30 r ooms.
Explora is all-inclusiv e, with prices that co ver airport transfers, meals, open bar , and
excursions; 4-day packages start every 4 days. Excursions range from easy half-day walks
to str enuous full-day hikes. There ar e about 15 ex cursions to choose fr om, including
horseback rides and photo safaris. I n the morning, a fleet of v ans whisks guests off to
their destination and back again for lunch; guides carry picnic lunches for full-day hikes.
The set menu is limited to two choices, generally a meat and vegetarian dish, and it must
be said that the food quality has at times been unev en—never bad, but not as outstand-
ing as one would expect fr om a hotel of this caliber . Americans make up a full 60% of
the guests, who typically indulge in the open bar , make new friends, and leav e thrilled.
Note that the first-day arriv al to the hotel is ar ound 6pm, leaving time for a shor t hike
to a lookout point only . And the last day isn 't really a day at all, as guests leav e after
breakfast for the drive back to the airport.
In Santiago, Américo Vespucio Sur 80, 5th floor.
&
2/395-2533.
Fax 2/228-4655. www.explora.com. 50
units. Packages per person, double oc cupancy: 4 nights/3 da ys starting at $2,476 (£1,673); 8 nights/7
days starting at $4,400 (£2,973). Rates include all meals, transportation, excursions, gear, and guides. AE,
DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; lounge; large indoor heated pool; outdoor Jacuzzi; sauna; shop;
massage; laundry service; high-speed Internet.
In room:
Minibar.
Hostería Lago Grey
This classic little white
hostería
is tucked within a beech forest,
looking out onto the beach at Lago G rey and the astounding blue icebergs that drift to
its shore. It's well on the other side of the par k, but the vie w is better her e than at the
Hostería las Torres. The 20 r ooms are spread out fr om a main common ar ea, a thor-
oughly enjoyable place to r elax, with a r estaurant, outdoor deck, and lounge ar ea. The
price suggests more luxurious rooms, but the walls ar e a tad thin and hav e little decora-
tion. Also, when the wind whips up, this side of the park is colder. On the plus side, there
are plenty of trails that branch out from here, including the stroll along the beach out to
the Pingo Valley and the strenuous hike up to Mirador Ferrier. You can also arrange raft-
ing trips do wn the Rio G rey and kayaking among the icebergs. The downside of this
hostería
is that a stay her e includes nothing but a r oom and breakfast—you will end up
coughing up much cash for overpriced meals, bar service, and transfers.
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