Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
388
final steep climb (400m/1,312 ft., which will take y ou an hour) up to the gorgeous
Laguna de los Tres, nestled beneath the giant granite walls of Mt. F itzRoy.
10-hr. return. 13km (8 miles) one-way. Medium to difficult.
Pilar-Río Blanco-Poincenot
This alternative to the Laguna de los Tres trek starts
at Hostería el Pilar and heads back to E l Chaltén via Río B lanco. The advantage is that
it's a one-way trail (one of the only), so y ou are not retracing your steps. To make it to
Laguna de los Tres, though, you need to get a v ery early start. You'll need a shuttle one-
way to get to the trail head on the banks of the Río Eléctrico, at Hostería El Pilar, 17km
(11 miles) from El Chaltén. Many local companies, including Mountaineering Patagonia
(see above), can help y ou organize this. From here it's a gradual climb to Laguna Capri
(see above) before dropping back into El Chaltén.
Circuit 9 hr. 20km (12 miles) total. Medium to difficult.
WHERE TO STAY
As the distances fr om El Calafate shrinks, thanks to highway pav ement, El Chaltén is
taking a swing upscale. F ormerly a destination for backpackers and hostelgoers, it no w
affords interesting new lodging options. A ne w Explora hotel, from the legendary Chil-
ean innovators, is set to open in 2010, just north of town, and a handful of other upscale
lodges are also in the works.
El Puma
El Puma is one of the originals in El Chaltén. The owners of this hotel work
with the outfitter F itz Roy Expediciones, which has an office next door . The hotel sits
back from the main road and faces out toward snowy peaks, although without a view of
FitzRoy. Inside, warm beige walls and wooden beams interplay with brick. Although the
common areas have terra-cotta ceramic floors, all r ooms are carpeted. Although r ooms
are bright, their style and their bathr ooms are, frankly, outdated. The inn relies heavily
on repeat bookings fr om foreign agencies. The cozy lounge has a fe w chairs that face a
roaring fire. There's also an eating ar ea with wooden tables and a small bar . Service here
is relaxed and very friendly.
Lionel Terray 212, El Chalt én.
&
/fax
02962/493095.
w ww.hosteriaelpuma.com.ar. 12 units . $160
([bp108) double; $200 (£135) double , including half-board. Rates include buffet breakfast and transfers
from the bus stop. MC, V. Closed Apr-Oct.
Amenities:
Restaurant; lunch catering; bar; excursions; trans-
fers; laundry services.
12
Hostería El Pilar
Seventeen kilometers (10 miles) fr om El Chaltén, H ostería El
Pilar is isolated, but with lo vely, peaceful surr oundings. The y ellow-walled and r ed-
roofed El Pilar was once an
estancia;
now it's tastefully and artistically decorated with just
enough detail to look great without distracting you from the outdoors. The lounge has a
few couches and a fireplace, and it's a comfy spot in which to hang out and read a book.
Rooms are simple but attractiv e, with peach walls, comfor table beds, and sunlight that
streams through half-curtained windows. Superior rooms are all doubles and have bigger
bathrooms. Transfers from El Chaltén are included. Guests normally take their meals at
the hotel's restaurant, which serves great cuisine. The hotel offers guided excursions, and
it's located next to several trail heads. If you're driving here, keep an eye open for the sign
to this hotel, because it's easy to miss. It is open to the public as a teahouse.
Ruta Provincial 23, 17km (10 miles) from El Chaltén.
&
/fax
02962/493002.
www.hosteriaelpilar.com.ar.
10 units. $155 (£105) double. Rates include transfers from El Chaltén. No credit cards. Must reserve ahead
Oct-Apr.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; lounge.
