Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
383
MarPatag Cruise
Moments
If you think Patagonia is a place for quiet contem-
plation, you'll love the MarPatag cruise, even if the price is tough to swallow. It's truly an
exclusive experience: You'll join no more than 45 others and spend 48 hours cruising the
majestic waters of Lago Argentino aboar d a cozy cr uiser, getting intimate and close-up
views of many glaciers, and r elaxing in y our snug, priv ate cabin at night aboar d this
deluxe catamaran. The company has been running these trips for a few years on a smaller,
more intimate boat. But in 2009, they launched a ne w boat with 22 cabins, each with a
private bathroom, on three stories. Nights are spent moored off the coast in a shelter ed
bay. There are large windo ws, outdoor decks, and plenty of cozy common spaces. The
package includes full meals and transfers, and lo vely onboard staff.
9 de Julio 57, O ffice 10, El C alafate.
&
02902/492118.
www.crucerosmarpatag.com. 21 cabins . $825
(£557) per person double . Rates include all meals and transf ers. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant;
lounge; library.
8
EL CHALTEN & THE FITZROY AREA
222km (138 miles) N of El Calafate
El Chaltén is a r ugged village of about 700 r esidents whose lifeblood, like E l Calafate's,
is the thr ong of visitors who come each summer . Visitors here, however, are generally
more active and adventurous than those who stay only in El Calafate; they include some
of the world 's greatest mountaineers as w ell as avid tr ekkers. This is the second-most-
visited r egion of Argentina 's Los G laciares National Park. I t's quite possibly the most
exquisite, as well, due to the singular nature of the granite spires that shoot up, torpedo-
like, above massive tongues of ice that descend fr om the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.
In the world of mountaineering, the sheer and ice-encrusted peaks of Mt. FitzRoy, Cerro
Torre, and their neighbors are considered some of the most formidable challenges on the
planet, and they draw hundr eds of elite climbers her e every year. The valleys beneath
them provide absolutely world-class trekking trails that any hiker can enjoy. Besides trek-
king, there are also interesting new options for kayaking, bir d-watching, and mountain
biking here.
El Chaltén is known as the “trekking capital of Argentina,” and it ranks up there with
the best trekking destinations in the world. What it offers—excellent trails in spectacu-
larly wild scener y, mixed with cozy inns and bistr os that you can return to at night—is
quite rare. Another bonus is that the hiking her e doesn't require any serious uphill (or
downhill for that matter) climbs, as most trails follow valley floors. Finally, altitude is not
a concern, meaning that your lungs should have no problem taking in some of the clean-
est air on the planet.
Little more than 10 years ago, El Chaltén counted just a dozen houses and a
hostal
or
two, but FitzRoy's rugged beauty and great hiking opportunities have created somewhat
of a boomtown. The town sits nestled in a cir cular rock outcrop at the base of F itzRoy,
and it's fronted by the vast, dry Patagonian Steppe. It's a wild and windy setting, and the
town has a ramshackle feel, although r ecent street paving has helped clean things up a
lot. Visitors use El Chaltén either as a base fr om which to take day hikes or as an o ver-
night stop before setting off for a multiday backpacking trip. This area is also remarkably
rich in human histor y, fr om its har dy early settlers and courageous alpinists, to mor
12
e
recent political border disputes with Chile.
