Península Valdés & Southern Patagonia - Argentina - page 369

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plains of P atagonia that take y ou up to a gorgeous vie w point. E xcursions include a
spectacular barbecue lunch or dinner. Cabalgata en Patagonia, Av. del Libertador 4315
( & 02902/493278; [e-mail]), offers a 2-hour ride to Bahía
Redonda for a panoramic view of El Calafate ($70/£47).
OFF-ROADING Four-wheel-drives have become a popular way to explor e the wilder-
ness around El Calafate. Mil Outdoor Adventure, Av. del Libertador 1029 ( & 02902/
491437 ), takes you across rivers, over boulders, along ridges, and up to the E l Calafate
Balcony for a panoramic view. There are also fossils and rock mazes en route. Patagonia
Extrema, Av. del Libertador 1341 ( & 02902/492393; www.southroad.com.ar), has 4×4
trips in Land C ruisers to the Cerr o Huyliche, with a stop for an afternoon yerba mate
break.
VISITING AN ESTANCIA As the world's wool market declines, many of the estancias
(ranches) in Patagonia have opened their doors to tourists, including some v ery close to
El Calafate. This is the hear t of the real Patagonia. Trips typically run day activities and
restaurant ser vices, and many ev en offer lodging, should y ou opt to spend the night.
They're a lovely way to experience the local histor y, immerse y ourself in the wild land-
scapes, and liv e Patagonia as authentically as possible. M ost day ex cursions include a
choice of horseback riding, hiking, or bird-watching, as well as a hearty traditional meal,
usually of barbecued local cordero (lamb). All of the following estancias offer meals, excur-
sions such as horseback riding and tr ekking, and transportation from El Calafate. Most
also have museums in the old family ranch homes. Close to town, El Galpón del Glaciar
( & 02902/491793; www.elgalpondelglaciar.com.ar) adds traditional estancia activities,
such as sheep-shearing, and has a lovely afternoon tea. It's also a good spot for an evening
visit; dinner shows with folklore dancing start at 6pm (reservations required). My favor-
ite of the bunch is Estancia Cristina , situated at the end of the r emote north arm
of Lago Argentino. See “Where to Stay,” below, for more information. You take a spec-
tacular 4-hour boat trip to get ther e, sailing past floating icebergs and the enormous
Upsala Glacier. Day trips include a hike with ex cellent vie ws of Cerr o Norte and the
Patagonian Ice Cap, a 4WD trip , or a lo vely horseback ride. Contact their office in E l
Calafate at 9 de Julio 57, Loc. 10 ( & 02902/491133; www.estanciacristina.com).
The meticulously maintained Estancia Alta Vista ( & 02902/491247; altavista@
cotecal.com.ar), 33km (20 miles) fr om E l Calafate, on the dir t r oad RP 15 near the
beautiful area of Lago R oca, is open O ctober through March and offers ranch activities
and fishing. It has an English-country style that has made it popular with British genteel
types. Hostería de Campo Nibepo Aike ( & 02902/492797; http://nibepoaike.com.ar)
is pictur esquely nestled on the southeast edge of the national par k, about 60km (37
miles) from El Calafate. I t's also near Lago R oca, offering fishing and ranch activities
October through April. An overnight here is a slightly less than at other local estancias.
On the lakefront just beside town, Parque De La Bahía, Padre Agostini and Avenida
Costaner ( & 02902/496555 ), has a nightly shearing show and in-depth presentation on
all things wool- and sheep-r elated. After a liv ely demonstration of dogs her ding sheep,
you get a chance to feed a bab y lamb from a bottle, and then head indoors for a hear ty
lamb dinner with a folklore show. There are also midday options with lunch included.
WHERE TO STAY
New hotels and hosterías are opening up ev ery month in E l Calafate. The bulk of them
are 15-room inns in the outskir ts of town. Really good value is hard to find her e; most
places are capitalizing on the shor t tourist season. P rices soar fr om December through

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