Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
360
Tips
W hen to Visit
Timing is critical when you're visiting the Península Valdés. If you want to see
penguins, forget about coming here between May and August. If you're hoping
to watch whales, don't come between mid-December and April. All things con-
sidered, the ideal time to visit Atlantic Patagonia is in October or November. The
penguins have laid their eggs and are guarding their nests, the whales are hap-
pily swimming in the bays with their offspring, and schools in Argentina are still
in session, so crowds are thin.
Heading north on RP 47 will bring you to
Caleta Valdés,
which has a cafeteria on the
bluff overlooking the ocean. This is where most visitors on ex cursions eat lunch, so it is
very busy fr om 1 to 3pm. The stairs leading do wn to the beach take y ou to another
stretch of sand covered by elephant seals, which are usually sleeping. Pleasant interpretive
walks with placar ds explain the natural histor y of the ar ea, with beautiful vie ws of the
Atlantic Coast.
At the northeastern tip of the peninsula is P unta Norte, where hundreds of sea lions
congregate fr om J anuary to J une. O rcas can sometimes be seen off this point too,
attracted by the sea lions—their favorite snack. Count yourself very lucky if you manage
to see the orcas hunting baby sea lions during dramatic high-tide attacks. Just to the west
of Punta Norte is
Estancia San Lorenzo
(
&
2965/458444
), which welcomes a colony
of up to 200,000 Magellan penguins each year from August to April. Tours are expensive
($45/£30 per person) but worthwhile, because you get to see penguins up close, in a very
quiet setting. Come early in the morning if possible.
Because the peninsula is barr en and dr y, you'll be able to spot guanacos; r eminiscent
of small llamas, they 're found only in P atagonia. Because they are so shy, however, they
usually run in the opposite dir ection when they see a car coming. Also keep an ey e out
for
choiques
(ostrichlike birds); the strange-looking
mara,
which is a rabbit that r uns on
four-legs like a dog; and lots of sheep. In the middle of the peninsula, three giant salt flats
appear like mirages on the horiz on.
In 1 day, it's possible to quickly sample the ar ea and spot some whales, sea lions, ele-
phant seals, and guanacos. You will spend the bulk of the day in the tour operator 's van,
however, especially if you are staying in Trelew. Wildlife lovers should plan to spend 2 or
3 days exploring the peninsula. For more information and good interactive online maps,
visit
www.peninsulavaldes.org.ar
.
12
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
The peninsula has a handful of ne w upscale lodging options—namely ranches or light-
houses that have opened their doors to the public o ver the past 5 y ears or so. Most are
expensive and offer packages that include all meals and daily activities. They're a relaxing
way to really live the wonders of P enínsula Valdés, to see the wildlife in silence, and to
get away fr om it all. I r ecommend you spend at least 2 nights in any of the follo wing
places. Highly recommended,
Estancia La Elvira
(
&
2965/474248;
www.laelvira.com.
ar) is inland, at the wor king heart of a ranch, which also r uns a r estaurant overlooking
Caleta Valdés. The ranch house has eight large r ooms that star t at $280 (£189) with
breakfast or $330 (£223) for full boar d. You don't get the coastal vie ws or the ocean
breezes here, but you will delight in excellent service and a charming rural facility. At the
