Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WHERE TO STAY
Expensive
Estancia Los Potreros
The B egg family has been farming in this emerald
pocket of Argentina for four generations.Their pastoral paradise of 2,000 hectares (4,940
acres), 600 co ws, and 140 horses offers the ultimate gaucho experience with a r efined,
Anglo-Argentine twist. Set high in the Sierras Chicas, the gleaming, whitewashed cottage
buildings feature old polished sto ves, clunky wooden tr unks, cozy raftered ceilings, and
big welcoming brass beds (water bottles included). What the
estancia
lacks in opulence
(it is a genuine
estancia
after all), it makes up for in spar kling cleanliness, well-equipped
attention to detail, and superb personal ser vice. At least one member of the family is on
hand at all times, and dinner is a heartwarming and gregarious affair in the family dining
room. Boasting some of the best horses in Argentina, Los P otreros is a riders ' paradise.
Guests here are generally the sor t who prefer to spend mor e time in the saddle than in
the pool. The six r ooms include a cute honeymooners ' cottage straight out of a H ans
Christian Andersen story. The
estancia
's address is La Cumbre, but it is actually accessed
from a mountain r oad behind the H otel Edén in La F alda. With that said, it is much
easier to get there from the eastern side, via Río Ceballos.
Casilla de C orreo 4, La C umbre.
&
011/6091-2692.
www.ride-americas.com. 6 units . $360 (£244) per
person, all-inclusive including airport pickup. Minimum stay 3 nights. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking.
Ameni-
ties:
Restaurant; outdoor pool; Wi-Fi; horseback riding.
257
Moderate
Hostal L'Hirondelle
Never mind the term
“hostal”;
in this case, it 's an ar chitec-
tural distinction, rather than a reference to a budget traveler's dormitory. The house looks
like a F rench chalet, surr ounded by gardens and the S ierras Chicas. I n a tribute to his
poet son, the o wner has given each individually decorated r oom a poet's name. On the
second floor, Walt Whitman enjoys a corner vie w of the pool, cour tyard, and nearb y
mountains. F rench prints and old bottles and spices decorate the long wood dining
room, where guests enjoy half-board (breakfast and dinner) in summer months. Breakfast
includes tea, cr oissants, fr uit, cereal, homemade sw eets, and fr esh juice. F or city folks
unaccustomed to clear, starry nights, the owner has set up a telescope for celestial vie w-
ing. The staff will help y ou arrange outdoor activities, including hiking and horseback
riding, as well as airport transfer upon request.
Av. Edén 861, 5172 La Falda.
&
354/842-2825.
www.lhirondellehostal.com. 21 units. Summer $46-$51
(£31-£34) double; $70 (£47) triple; Winter $36-$48 (£24-£32) double; $51 (£34]) triple . Summer rat es
include half-board; winter rates include br eakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking.
Amenities:
Restaurant;
outdoor pool; game room; babysitting; laundry; TV room w/video library; Wi-Fi.
In room:
TV.
9
WHERE TO DINE
La Parrilla de R aúl
ARGENTINE A popular
parrilla
with a distinctiv e family
atmosphere, Raúl's menuless system works like this: First, help yourself to the salad bar,
an assortment of mixed vegetable dishes, cabbages, stuffed eggs, candied sw eet potatoes,
and other delights. As you finish your salad, the first meat course will land on your plate,
likely a tender slice of por k with a
cerveza
sauce (y es, beer sauce). N ext comes thick
chorizo and a rich piece of
morcilla
(blood pudding). No stopping here—
costilla
(a beef
rib) is next. Ready for more? Following the rib is
matambre,
another delicious morsel of
beef. At this point, you can politely request that they stop bringing you meat, or you can
wave on more. Request a large soda, and they will bring y ou a 1.25-liter bottle to help
