Córdoba & the Central Sierras - Argentina - page 246

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Touring the Jesuit Estancias

The next time you sip a satisfying glass of Ar gentine wine, thank the Jesuits of
Córdoba. These resourceful monks plant ed South America's first vineyar ds in
Córdoba in the 16th c entury, as they required wine to celebrate the Eucharist.
They also needed priests, and, for this reason, they established a college in the
city, one of the earliest on the continent. Córdoba soon became the headquar-
ters of the entir e South American arm of the Jesuits . In 1621, the c ollege was
renamed the University of San Carlos. By the 18th century, the city was known
as Córdoba Docta, or Learned Córdoba, the undisputed cultural capital of the
Vice Regency of La Plata.
To fund such expansion, the Jesuits operat ed six flourishing estancias
around the province—three near the town of Jesús M aría. Produce from their
orchards, farms, and vineyards not only paid for students' tuition but funded a
massive construction project of beautiful churches and residences. You can still
view five of these today, which is a delightful way to get off-road and step back
in time.
To visit a pr ovincial Jesuit estancia, c ontact the t ourist offic e, hir e a car ,
or sig n up with a local tra vel agent, such as Stylo Viajes, Chacabuc o 325
( & 351/424-6605 or 351/421-8012; st [e-mail]), or Córdoba Nativo,
27 de Abril 11 ( & 351/424-5341; www.cordobanativoviajes.com.ar). A 1- day
tour to three estancias costs $45 (£30).
Estancia de A lta Gracia Another UNESCO World Heritage Sit e, Estancia
de Alta Gracia is no w the town center of a sleepy municipality by the same name,
25km (16 miles) south west of C órdoba city. The estancia 's beautiful buildings ar e
situated around the central plaza. On-site is an int eresting museum, k nown as La
Casa del Virrey, named after an ex-resident, Santiago de Liniers, Viceroy of the River
Plate.
Av. Del Tajamar and S olares. & 354/742-1303. inf [e-mail]. A dmission 60¢
(40p). Free on Wednesday. English guides available. Apr-Nov Tues-Fri 9am-1pm and 3-7pm,
Sat-Sun and holidays 9:30am-12:30pm and 3:30-6:30pm; Dec-Mar Tues-Fri 9am-8pm.
Estancia de Caroya Less grand than Estancia Jesús María nearby, this quaint
building with a pretty courtyard and a small Spanish-style chapel is the oldest of all
the estancias. Built in 1616, it was used as a holida y home for foreign scholars, and

9

Museo Caraffa Raw concrete walls and all glass walkways are the main features in
this modern art gallery, with somewhat brutalist architecture contrasting with its original
classical-style facade. The multimedia exhibits are surreal and arresting, such as a photo-
montage of a gaucho arguing with a priest as he hoses water on an injured football player
or video loops of childr en playing in a backyar d. Some of the ar t is hit-and-miss, with
frequent exhibitions b y local students and ar t graduates. N amed after a famous local
painter, the Caraffa is wor th an hour of y our time to experience the vibrant local ar t

scene.