Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
229
those who want to explor e the area further. Visitors include artists inspired by the land-
scape and Carnaval lovers who enjoy a good party (see “Pachamama Parties,” below).
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Panamericano, Dorrego, San Salvador de Jujuy ( & 3884/237330 ),
is one of several local bus companies that travel from Jujuy's provincial capital to Tilcara.
The journey takes 2 hours and costs $3 (£2). There are also regular buses that leave from
Salta Terminal de O mnibus, at A venida H. Yrigoyen and A braham Cornejo, S alta
( & 387/401-1143 ). The journey takes 4 hours and costs $7 (£4.75). Travel agencies
Volcan H igueras, Mendoza 453, S alta ( & 387/431-9175; www.volcanhigueras.com.
ar), and Silvia Magno, San Juan 2399, S alta ( & 387/434-1468; silviamagnovyt@aol.
com), offer 1-day excursions from Salta to Tilcara and beyond.
What to See & Do
Pucará is a r econstructed hilltop fort overlooking the town, first built 900 y ears ago by
the Diaguita tribe. There is a pyramid-shaped monument at the summit and the entir e
site covers 8 hectar es (20 acr es), including a high-altitude botanical gar den. The site is
open daily from 9am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6pm. Museo Arqueologico Eduardo Casa-
nova, Belgrano 445 ( & 388/495-5006 ), displays carved standing stones and other pre-
Colombian ar tifacts. I t is open ev ery day 9am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6pm. Museo
Regional de Pintura Jose A. Terry, Rivadavia 459 ( & 388/495-5005 ), displays works
by the area's most famous painter. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 7pm.
WHERE TO DINE
New restaurants are popping up ev ery year, particularly along the principal str eet Bel-
grano. Los Puestos, at Padilla and B elgrano ( & 388/495-5100 ), is a busy tourist stop
and deser vedly so as it has warm ambience with r ock walls and a bamboo r oof patio.
Pachamama, Belgrano 590 ( & 388/495-5293 ), is a bright r ed town house serving tra-
ditional fare with occasional live music.
WHERE TO STAY
Quinta La Paceña Posada, at Padilla and Ambrosetti, Tilcara ( & 388/495-5098; www.
quintalapacena.com.ar), is a beautiful lodge located 4 blocks fr om the main plaza.
Designed by owner architects Lili and César , the traditional-style building is crammed
with hear twarming details such as cactus pillars and a tiny bamboo-co vered walkway.
The elegant r ooms start at $55 (£37) for a double. Rincon de Fuego, Ambrosetti 445
( & 388/4271432; www.rincondefuego.com), is another traditional-style to wn house
with lots of old-world charm.The all-stone facade on a cobbled street hides luxury rooms
with unev en adobe walls and bar e rafters. N othing is spar ed r egarding comfor t, with
Andean-designed upholster y co vering king-siz e beds. R ooms star t at $60 (£41) for a
double. Refugio D el P intor, at Alv ero and J ujuy ( & 388/427-1432; www.elrefugio
delpintor.com), is a modern two-story building done in the traditional style of rock walls
and wooden ceilings. The tastefully designed r ooms hav e lots of light and o verlook a
courtyard with lawn. They start at $60 (£41) for a double.
8
What to See & Do
Lying 20km (13 miles) south of Tilcara is the small colonial hamlet of Purma-
marca . Cerro de los S iete Colores (Hill of the S even Colors) dominates the
village, reflecting its startling red and purple colors onto the pueblo's quiet streets and dusty
adobe homes. Try to arrive early—9am is best—when the morning sun shines brightly on
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