Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
227
Colomé—Cactus & Vineyards
Bodega Colomé
(Ruta P rovincial 53, M olinos, Salta;
&
3868/494044;
www.
bodegacolome.com) is the newest edition to Salta's ever-increasing list of win-
ery lodges. Located 4 hours o ver bumpy, unpaved roads from either Cafayate
or Salta, it fits in nic ely with o wner Donald Hess 's penchant f or building ar t-
gallery wineries in far-flung , isolated places. The scenery is spec tacular, with
giant cac ti g iving thr ee-fingered salut es amid vineyar ds and multic olored
mountains. As you approach the winery, you pass the ancient village M olinos
that has been virtually adopted by the winery, as Hess insists on employing the
local population, and has built a new chur ch and c ommunity c enter. Neat,
stoned-lined roads lead to a low cream-colored, colonial-style building with a
long gallery of ar ches. This is the upscale lodge and r estaurant that cat ers to
guests who want to get away from it all. In fact, the winery should only be vis-
ited if you wish to stay in the area, as it is a long, bumpy, dusty round-trip. There
is a helic opter pad f or high r ollers and talk of a privat e landing strip f or air-
planes. The lodge rooms are large and luxurious, with indigenous touches such
as the hand-w oven rugs that the ar ea is famous f or. The restaurant produces
some of the best cuisine in Argentina, which is no small achievement consider-
ing its remote location. In the past, the lodge has flo wn in some of the world's
best chefs to oversee the kitchen, but they soon tire of the isolation and depart.
A former sous-chef from the village no w runs the operation, and ther e are no
complaints.
8
room, with mello w jazz playing fr om a gramophone and tall windo ws overlooking the
pool. Then jump ahead sev eral centuries do wn a jasmine walkway , and y ou're in the
futuristic wine spa—a slate-gray cube of modernist indulgence. Despite such splendor, it
must be said the lodge 's overall feeling is cold and corporate, and the staff ar e not v ery
engaging. It has fabulous facilities but lacks a human touch.
RN 40, at RP 68 (par t of El Esteco winery), 4427 Cafayate.
&
3868/421747.
www.luxurycollection.com/
cafayate. 30 units. $200 (£135) double. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Free parking.
Ameni-
ties:
International restaurant; lounge; outdoor pool; spa.
In room:
TV.
Moderate
Viñas de Cafayate Wine Resort
Situated 3km (2 miles) outside the to wn in
the mountain foothills, this beautiful, simply designed wine lodge has a commanding
view of the v alley. The front facade of pillar ed arches leads to a large cour tyard with a
pond and a splash of purple fr om some lav ender bushes. O n either side ar e 12 r ooms,
big with minimal decor . They have traditional cane ceilings, king-siz e beds, terra-cotta
tiles, and the occasional tapestr y. The bathrooms are spacious and clean, and all hav e a
shower and tub. Bordered by vineyards on every side, you can literally pick a grape and
eat it while sunbathing by the pool. The restaurant is somewhat hall-like and bare, but it
serves good traditional food, such as por k ribs with
choclo,
to guests and visitors alike.
25 de Mayo, Camino al Divisadero, Cafayate.
&
3868/422272.
www.cafayatewineresort.com. 12 units.
$110 (£74) double . R ates include c ontinental br eakfast. MC, V. F ree park ing.
Amenities:
Restaurant;
lounge; outdoor pool; Wi-Fi.
