Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
178
Teatro S olís Montevideo's main theater and opera house, opened in 1852,
underwent an extensiv e r enovation in late 1990. I t hosts U ruguay's most impor tant
cultural ev ents. While the str ucture on its outside r emains historical, the interior is a
thoroughly modern contrast.
Calle Buenos Aires 652. & 02/1950-1856. www.teatrosolis.org.uy. Guided tours are Tues, Thurs-Fri, and
Sun 11am, noon, and 5pm and Sat 11am, noon, and 1 and 5pm f or about $1 (70p) in Spanish and $1.25
(70p) in English and P ortuguese. Wed guided t ours at 11am, noon, and 5pm ar e free. Evening cultural
productions will vary in price and time.
MONTEVIDEO & CARNAVAL
One of the most delightful times to come to M ontevideo is Carnaval season, usually in
late January, February, and early March when there are street festivals as well as theatrical
competitions. It's at this time that sev eral aspects particular to Uruguayan culture come
to the for efront. Established as a bor der colony betw een the edges of the S panish and
Portuguese empires, it seems a mix between an Argentine and Brazilian festival. You'll see
murgas, or street dancing bands, similar to those in Argentina, as w ell as fo xy feather-
festooned females as you'd see in Rio. It's also a time when the Afr o-Uruguayan popula-
tion, descendants of slaves who represent about 7% of the countr y, become truly visible
and celebrated. Llamadas, or African drum bands, are part of the festivities. A highlight
of Carnaval season is February 2, the day celebrating the sea-goddess Yemanga, from the
Candomblé religion, a fusion of African beliefs br ought over by slaves and blended with
Catholic ideology. Thousands head to Playa Ramirez, across from Parque Rodó and other
beaches, to listen to music, worship , and leav e offerings in the sea. Year-round, the
Museo del Carnaval, at Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825, 218 at Maciel ( & 02/916-5493
or 02/915-0802), in the port area, provides an excellent perspective on the celebrations.
WHERE TO STAY
Parking is included in the rates of most U ruguay hotels. In 2005, Montevideo repealed
its hotel tax for foreigners (but it's still paid by locals).
Expensive
Belmont House Finds A boutique hotel in M ontevideo's peaceful Carrasco
neighborhood, Belmont House has small elegant spaces with car efully chosen antiques
and wood furnishings that giv e this hotel the feeling of a w ealthy private home. G uest
rooms feature two- or four-poster beds; rich, colorful linens; and marble bathrooms with
small details such as to wel warmers and delux e toiletries. M any of the r ooms featur e
balconies overlooking the pretty courtyard and pool, and two of the rooms have Jacuzzis.
Belmont House is a skip and a jump away from the beach, golf, and tennis. Gourmands
will find an ex cellent international r estaurant, afternoon tea, and a parrilla open w eek-
ends next to the pool. The gracious staff assists guests with outdoor activities and local
itineraries.
Av. Rivera 6512, 11500 Montevideo. & 02/600-0430. Fax 02/600-8609. www.belmonthouse.com.uy. 28
units. $260 (£176) double; from $325 (£220) suite. Rates include gourmet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Ame-
nities: Restaurant; paradilla; tearoom; bar; outdoor pool; disc ounts for nearby golf and t ennis; fitness
center; sauna; business c enter; bab ysitting; laundr y ser vice; dr y cleaning . In r oom: A/C, TV, minibar,
hair dryer.
Radisson Montevideo Victoria Plaza Hotel The Victoria P laza has long
been one of Montevideo's top hotels. Standing in the hear t of the financial district, this
European-style hotel makes a good base from which to do business or explore the capital.
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