Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
136
SAN TELMO & LA BOCA
These neighborhoods offer ex cellent antiques, ar tists' stu-
dios, and arts and crafts celebrating tango. Street performers and artists are omnipresent,
especially on weekends when even locals come to be entertained. Avoid La Boca at night
and be aware of pickpockets in both neighborhoods.
OUTDOOR MARKETS
The
Feria de S an Telmo
(www .feriadesantelmo.com), which takes place ev ery
Sunday from 10am to 5pm at P laza Dorrego, is a vibrant, color ful experience that will
delight even the most jaded trav eler and should absolutely not be missed. E ven locals
come here for bargains and fun; and during the summer, the event ends long after 5pm.
As street vendors sell their heirlooms, singers and dancers mo ve though the cr owd to
tango music. Among the 270-plus v endor stands, y ou will find antique silv er objects,
porcelain, crystal, and other antiques.
Plaza Serrano Fair
is at the small plaza at the intersection of Calle Serrano (Calle Borges
on some maps) and Honduras, which forms the hear t of Palermo Soho and is also known
as Plaza Julio Cortazar. Bohemian ar ts and crafts ar e sold her e, while dr ead-headed locals
sing and play guitars. O fficially, it's held S aturday and S unday from 10am to 6pm, but
impromptu vendors set up at night, too, when the r estaurants are crowded.
Recoleta Fair
, which takes place Saturday and Sunday in front of Recoleta Cem-
etery in Plaza Francia from 10am until sunset, offers every imaginable souvenir and craft,
as w ell as food. This has become the city 's largest fair , completely taking o ver all the
walkways in the ar ea—even the I glesia Pilar gets inv olved with stands selling r eligious
souvenirs. Liv e bands sometimes play on whatev
er par t of the hill sloping do
wn to
Avenida Libertador is not taken over by vendors.
La Boca Fair
is open daily fr om 10am to 6pm or sundo wn, and concentrates on E l
Caminito, the colorful pedestrian walkway that is the heart of the neighborhood. It's the
most touristy of all the fairs, and most of the items ar e terribly o verpriced. Still, if y ou
need tacky souvenirs in a hurry, you can do all your shopping here. Besides, tango singers
and other street performers will keep your mind off the inflated prices.When the vendors
start leaving at the end of the day, you should, too, for safety r easons.
SHOPPING A TO Z
Almost all shops in Buenos Aires accept credit cards. However, you will often get a better
price if you offer to pay with cash (including U.S. dollars, in certain cases). You won't be
able to use credit cards at outdoor markets.
5
Antiques
Throughout the streets of San Telmo, you will find the city 's best antiques shops; don 't
miss the antiques market that takes place all day Sunday at Plaza Dorrego (see “Outdoor
Markets,” above). A number of fine antiques stores are scattered along Avenida Alvear in
Recoleta, including a collection of boutique shops at
Galería Alvear,
Av. Alvear 1777.
Tips
Shopping Tip
Most antiques stores will come down 10% to 20% from the listed price if you try
to bargain.
