Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BELGRANO
Expensive
Buddha BA
CHINESE In the hear t of B elgrano's Chinatown, this v ery elegant,
two-level Chinese teahouse and restaurant is built into a house, with an adjacent gar den
and art gallery selling fine Asian ar t and antiques. The interesting and creatively named
menu includes items such as D ragon Fire, a mix of spicy chicken and curried
lomo;
or
Buddha Tears, squid in a so y and chicken br oth sauce with seasoned v egetables. The
atmosphere is very welcoming and makes a great rest stop if you're exploring this neigh-
borhood in depth.
Arribeños 2288 (at Mendoza).
&
11/4706-2382.
www.buddhaba.com.ar. Main courses $8-$15 (£5.40-
£10). MC, V. Wed-Sun 8:30-11:30pm; Sat-Sun 12:30-3:30pm; t ea ser vice Wed-Sun 4-7:30pm. M etro:
Juramento.
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WHAT TO SEE & DO
Buenos Aires is wonder ful to explor e and fairly easy to navigate. The most impr essive
historical sites surround Plaza de Mayo, although you will certainly experience Argentine
history in neighborhoods such as La Boca and S an Telmo, too. Don't miss a walk along
the riverfront in Puerto Madero or an afternoon among the plazas and cafes of R ecoleta
or Palermo. Numerous sidewalk cafes offer respite for weary feet, and good public trans-
portation or a quick cab is av ailable to carry you from neighborhood to neighborhood.
Your first stop should be one of the city tourism centers (see “ Visitor Information,”
earlier in this chapter) to pick up a br ochure, city map, and advice. You can also ask at
your hotel for a copy of “ The Golden Map” and
QuickGuide Buenos Aires,
to help y ou
navigate the city and locate its major attractions.
NEIGHBORHOODS TO EXPLORE
La Boca
La Boca, on the banks of the Río Riachuelo, developed originally as a trading center and
shipyard. This was the city's first Little Italy, giving the neighborhood its distinct flav or.
La Boca is most famous for giving bir th to the tango in the numer ous bordellos, once
known locally as
quilombos,
which once served the largely male population.
The focus of La Boca is the
Caminito,
a pedestrian walkway, named ironically after a
tango song about a rural village. The walkway is lined with humorously sculpted statues
and murals explaining its histor y. S urrounding the cobblestone str eet ar e corr ugated
metal houses painted in a hodgepodge of colors, r ecalling a time when the poor locals
decorated with whatever paint was left over from ship maintenance in the nearby harbor.
Today many artists live or set up their studios in these houses. Ar t and souvenir vendors
work side by side with tango per formers along the Caminito; this Caminito “F ine Arts
Fair” is open daily from 10am to 6pm.
A victim of its o wn success, La Boca has become an obscene tourist trap . While the
area is historically important, most of what you will encounter is overpriced souvenir and
T-shirt shops and constant harassment from people trying to hand you flyers for medio-
cre restaurants. In the summer, the smell from the heavily polluted river becomes almost
overbearing. This area is a requisite stop, for at least a quick look, but if you are short on
time, don't let the visit take up too much of y our day. Ironically, with prices climbing
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