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cafe is located inside the lobby of the headquarters and teaching center of the Madres de
Plaza de Mayo, just off of Plaza Congreso. What makes the place so special is its location
and its left-wing political atmosphere. In few other places in Buenos Aires can you speak
so freely with those who had family members disappear during Argentina 's military dic-
tatorship, or with young students who have come to study in this building and continue
seeking justice in this cause. The Madres bookstore is just to the side of the cafe, and it's
full of books and ne wspapers on liberal causes fr om throughout Latin America. I t also
has one of the largest collections of books on Che G uevara anywhere in the world. An
Argentine native, he is a personal hero to many of the Madres, and his image adorns walls
throughout the building. The restaurant here recently expanded (it used to be just snacks
and sandwiches and some desser ts, all self-ser vice from the snack bar). Waitress service
has been added along with an outdoor seating area, one of the side effects of the smoking
ban. Prices have gone up slightly , and ne w offerings include simple pasta dishes and a
new selection of Italian pastries.
Hipólito Yrigoyen 1584 (at Ceballos). & 11/4382-3261. Main courses $3-$8 (£2-£5.40). No credit cards.
Mon-Fri 8:30am-10:30pm; Sat (and some Sun) 11am-5pm. M etro: Congreso.

La Americana ARGENTINE/ITALIAN This place calls itself “La Reina de las
Empanadas” (the Queen of Empanadas), and that indeed it is. They offer an enormous
range of empanadas, all made with a v ery light dough and slightly burned edges; they 're
never heavy or greasy. The place is busy and loud, with the constant din of conv ersation
bouncing off the tile-and-stone walls and the plate-glass windo ws looking out over Cal-
lao. There are tables her e as w ell as a takeout section and an ar ea for standing and eat-
ing—some people just can 't be bother ed to sit and simply scar f do wn these delicious
creations once they get them. The place looks like many of the fast-food-chain empanada
emporiums, but don't confuse it with them; this is the only one of its kind. Waiters are
frantic, scurr ying from table to table as people change their minds after one bite and
order extra rounds. You'll have to keep r eminding them of what y ou ordered if you feel
it's taking too much time, but don't blame them: It's just too busy for normal humans to
keep up with the pace of the place. I talian specialties such as calz ones and pizzas r ound
out the menu choices. Deliveries can be made to nearb y hotels.
Callao 83 (at Bartolomé Mitre). & 11/4371-0202. Main courses $1-$7 (70p-£4.75). No credit cards. Sun-
Thurs 7am-2am; Fri-Sat 7am-3am. Metro: Congreso.

5

ABASTO & ONCE
Moderate
El G alope AR GENTINE/PARRILLA/MIDDLE EASTERN/K OSHER This is
one of Buenos Aires's most popular kosher restaurants, located in what was once the main
area of B uenos Aires's Jewish community. This place is best described as an Argentine
parrilla with Middle Eastern accents. It serves wonderfully juicy and kosher slabs of beef
(my experience in the United States has always been that beef plus kosher equals dr y, so
I am not sure how they do it). The interior is simple, wood paneled, and home-style.The
family that o wns the r estaurant oversees its operations; sometimes they argue right in
front of you. The menu also features a selection of kosher Argentine wines, and y ou can
take a bottle home with y ou if you'd like. Middle Eastern fare—such as pitas and hum-
mus as starters or sides, and baklav a desserts—is also on hand, as w ell as fast food such
as pastrami sandwiches and salads. S ervice is lo w-key; unusually quiet waiters almost
seem afraid to approach the tables, but the food mor e than makes up for it.