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menu. Windows to the street give great views, and a VIP lounge decorated in Old Eng-
lish style is upstairs, serving as a cigar bar. On the rooftop there's a covered terrace offer-
ing even more dining space. In spite of the change in food, if you have come to drink as
the I rish do, w ell, y ou're definitely in luck. S ullivan's has one of the most extensiv e
imported whiskey menus in to wn, beginning at about $5 (£3.40) per ser ving. The luck
of the Irish is indeed evident in the history of this restaurant: They opened on December
20, 2001, just days before the peso crisis, yet they have survived. If you're in Buenos Aires
on St. Patrick's Day, this is definitely the place to be.
El Salvador 4919 (at Bor ges). & 11/4832-6442. Main courses $7-$12 (£4.75-£8.20). AE, V. Mon-Thurs
10:30am-2 or 3am; Fri-Sat 10:30am-5am; Sun noon-2:30am. Metro: Scalabrini Ortiz.

Te Mataré Ramírez Finds INTERNATIONAL/FRENCH This is perhaps
the most inter esting and cr eative dining experience in B uenos Air es. I ts symbol, an
aroused fork with an extended and upright prong, gives you a clue as to the erotic nature
of the r estaurant. The name of the r estaurant literally means “I am going to kill y ou,
Ramírez.” It comes from playful arguments the owner would have with a friend who was
a sor t of Casano va, and this was a thr eat the friend often hear d fr om husbands with
whose wiv es he was carr ying on affairs. I t's an er otic r estaurant, both in its food and
decor. The food is an inter esting mix of flav ors and textur es. S ensual combinations
include garlic and sun-dried tomatoes mix ed with sweet elements and pour ed over sau-
téed or marinated meats. This emphasis on contrasts cr eates some of the most flav orful
cooking in to wn. The ceilings ar e decorated with paintings of naked men and women
with nothing mor e than high-heeled shoes, mix ed in with naughty cher ubs. Erotic art
hangs on the walls, all of it for sale. The lighting is boudoir r ed, and wine is consumed
out of antique cut-cr ystal glasses that cast r ed sparkles on the tablecloths. B lack-clothed
actors perform playfully racy shows on a small stage her e, using hand-held puppets that
do very naughty things. It's hard to describe this place as romantic, but certainly a dinner
here could lead to post-meal hanky-panky when discussing the play 's theme. S low, soft
music such as jazz and bossa no va plays as you eat, adding to the mood for lo ve.
Paraguay 4062 (at Scalabrini Ortiz). & 11/4831-9156. www.tematareramirez.com. Reservations recom-
mended. Main courses $10-$20 (£6.80-£14). AE, MC, V. Sun-Wed 9pm-midnight; Thurs-Fri 9pm-1am;
Sat 9pm-2am. Metro: Scalabrini Ortiz.

5

Moderate
De Olivas i Lustres MEDITERRANEAN This magical r estaurant opened in
Palermo Viejo several years ago, building the foundation for the gastronomic paradise the
neighborhood would soon become. The dining r oom displays eccentric antiques, oliv e
jars, and wine bottles. The r easonably priced menu celebrates M editerranean cuisine,
with light soups, fr esh fish, and sautéed v egetables as its focus. The breast of duck with
lemon and honey is mouthwatering; ther e are also a number of tapeos —appetizer-size
dishes. Best of all: F or about $15 (£10) a person, y ou and y our par tner can shar e 15
sensational small plates—br ought out individually, and building in adv enturousness—
over the course of a couple of hours. What I find most unique in the r estaurant beyond
the Mediterranean fare is the use of native and Incan ingredients in various dishes. If you
have ever wanted to try alligator or llama, this is the place to do it.
Gorriti 3972 (at Medrano). & 11/4867-3388. www.deolivasilustres.com.ar. Reservations recommended.
Main courses $6-$15 (£4.05-£10). AE, MC, V. Mon-Sat 7:30pm-1:30am. Metro: Scalabrini Ortiz.
El Estanciero Finds PARRILLA In most of the r estaurants in the Las Cañitas
section of Palermo, it's all about the glamour. Here, however, in the parrilla El Estanciero,