Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
110
Pablo, have taken over and give the place the lo ving care their relatives once did. H ere,
you'll dine on thick, juicy, perfectly cooked steaks. Italian food, fish, and chicken are also
in the offerings. You can order one-half and one-quarter portions of many items, which
is great both because they give you so much and because it means you can bring the kids
along without wasting food. Lots of Boca Juniors and other sports memorabilia hanging
on the walls remind you that you're in one of the most important soccer/
fútbol
neighbor-
hoods in the world. This is one of the only places I r ecommend for serious eating in La
Boca, but tables fill up rapidly at 9pm, so r eserve or come earlier. Note that you should
arrive here by cab and have the restaurant call a cab for y ou when you leave at night. El
Obrero is one of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires and should not be missed. However,
though I have never personally had a pr oblem in La Boca, it is consider ed a dangerous
neighborhood at night.
Agustin R. Caffarena 64 (at Caboto).
&
11/4362-9912.
Main courses $3-$8 (£2-£5.40). No credit cards.
Mon-Sat noon-4pm and 8:30pm-midnight (sometimes later). No metro access.
BARRIO NORTE
Moderate
Clásica y Moderna
Finds
AR GENTINE This r estaurant helped sav e an
important bookstore from extinction. The bookstore opened in this location in 1938,
though the company dates fr om 1918. Emilio Robert Diaz was the original o wner, and
now his grandchildren run the place. In 1988, books were relegated to the back to make
way for diners, but this is still one of the best bookstores for English-speaking tourists in
the city. You'll find B uenos Aires photo and histor y books, as w ell as Argentine shor t-
story collections, all translated into E nglish. While this is a pr otected
café notable,
the
interior has been completely stripped down to the exposed brick, giving the place a dark,
industrial feel. D ecorations overhead include old bicy cles and signs, but it is a pleasant
relaxed space, where it's easy to chat with the staff as you dine or sit at the bar. There are
many light and healthful choices such as salads and so y burgers, on the menu, though
because all come with fries, it ev ens out the caloric content. M ixed drinks start at about
$5 (£2.75). Events of all kinds ar e held here too, fr om literary readings to plays, dance
shows, and ar t exhibitions. S hows are held Wednesday to S aturday around 10pm, and
there are sometimes two shows, the second one beginning after midnight.
Callao 892 (at C órdoba).
&
11/4812-8707
or 11/4811-3670. Reser vations recommended for sho ws.
Main courses $5-$15 (£3.40-£10). AE, MC, V. Daily 8am-1am. Bookstore hours: Mon-Sat 9am-1am; Sun
5pm-1am. Metro: Callao.
PALERMO
Very Expensive
Casa Cruz
Finds
ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL Casa Cruz is one of the city's
chicest restaurants. With its enormous polished-brass doors and lack of a sign on the
door, y ou almost feel like y ou ar e entering a nightclub , and inside, the dar k modern
interior maintains the theme. The impr essive r ound bar, always decorated with fr esh
flower arrangements, is the first thing y ou'll see before continuing on into the spacious
dining area full of polished woods and r ed upholstery. The place takes its name fr om its
owner, Juan Santa Cruz. This is his first venture into restaurants, and with the attention
this restaurant has received in the national and international pr ess, he has done ex ceed-
ingly well. The menu here is eclectic and interesting, overseen by Germán Martitegui, the
same chef who oversees the kitchen at Olsen. Rabbit, sea bass, Parma ham rolls, and other
interesting and exotic ingredients go into the many flav orful dishes.
5
