Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
107
same thing and certainly looks like one. Newly made with the intention of looking old,
the walls ar e soft y ellows with old adv ertising posters and other decorations such as
French flags politely tucked into corners. The stunning tile floor was r edone in a turn-
of-the-last-century style. The menu is in French and Spanish, and offers such specialties
as steak tartare, lemon chicken, trout with almonds, and beef bordelaise. Chef Sebastian
Fouillade worked with Alain D ucasse. Smaller children's portions of select main menu
items are available about $10 (£6.80).
Defensa 596 (at M exico).
&
11/4342-7930.
w ww.brasseriepetanque.com. M ain c ourses $10-$25
(£6.80-£17). AE, DC, MC, V. Sun-Fri 12:30-3:30pm; Tues-Sun 8:30pm-midnight. Metro: Independencia.
Moderate
Bar El F ederal
Moments
AR GENTINE/CAFE This bar and r estaurant, on a
quiet corner in San Telmo, presents a beautiful step back in time. Fortunately, as another
bar
notable,
it will stay that way for ever. The first thing that strikes y ou is the massiv e, carved-
wood and stained-glass ornamental stand over the bar area. Local patrons sit at the old tables
whiling away their time, chatting, or sitting with a book and drinking tea or espr esso. The
original tile floor remains, and old signs, portraits, and small antique machines decorate this
space. In business since 1864, B ar El Federal is among the most P orteño of places in S an
Telmo, a neighborhood with more of these establishments than any other area. Some of the
staff has been here for decades on end, and pr oudly so. Food is a collection of small, simple
things, mostly sandwiches, steaks,
lomos
(sirloin cuts), with a very large salad selection. High-
quality pastries are also served to complement the menu.
Corner of P erú and C arlos Calvo.
&
11/4300-4313.
Main courses $3-$10 (£2-£6.80). AE, MC, V. Sun-
Thurs 7am-2am; Fri-Sat 7am-4am. Metro: Independencia.
Chez C afé Resto
FRENCH This historic house, once inhabited b y Argentina 's
beloved poet and soldier Esteban de Luca (who wrote the country's first national anthem,
the “Marcha Patriótica”), was built in 1786 and declared a National Historic Monument
in 1941. In our last edition, this housed a r estaurant taking the poet 's name, but it has
since been converted into a casual French bistro.
Calle Defensa 1000 (at Carlos Calvo).
&
11/4361-4338.
Main courses $8-$12 (£5.40-£8.20). AE, DC, MC,
V. Tues-Sun noon-4pm and 8pm-1am. Metro: Independencia.
Desnivel
PARRILLA This place brings ne w meaning to the term “ greasy spoon.”
Everything in here has an oily sheen—from the slippery floor to the railings, glasses, and
dishes. Even the walls and the ar twork seem to bleed gr ease. Thankfully, the food mor e
than makes up for the atmospher e: Serving mostly thick, w ell-cooked, and fatty steaks,
this is one of S an Telmo's best
parrillas.
A flood of locals and tourists, often lined up at
the door, keeps the place hopping. On Sunday or when a game is on television, especially
large crowds come to watch and eat under the blaring TV screen suspended o ver the
dining area. The decor in this two-level restaurant is unassuming, home-style, and full of
mismatched wooden chairs, tablecloths, and silv erware. Unlike many other local restau-
rants that have inflated their prices in recent years, this
parrilla
has maintained its reason-
ably priced menu.
Defensa 858 (at Independencia).
&
11/4300-9081.
Main courses $5-$8 (£3.40-£5.40). No cr edit cards.
Daily noon-4pm and 8pm-1am. Metro: Independencia.
5
La Brigada
ARGENTINE Known as one of the best
parrillas
in San Telmo, La
Brigada is r eminiscent of the P ampas, with gaucho memorabilia filling the r estaurant.
White-linen tablecloths and tango music complement the atmosphere. An upstairs dining
