Buenos Aires - Argentina - page 98

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Stop in for information on plays, art shows, other events aimed at the general public, and
exercise programs strictly for women.
Tucumán 840 (at Suipacha). & 11/4328-0391. Main courses $2-$5 (£1.35-£3.40). No credit cards. Mon-
Fri 8am-6pm. Metro: Lavalle.

Café Retiro Finds CAFE/ARGENTINE This cafe is par t of a chain, the Café
Café consor tium. As such, ther e is nothing spectacular about the food, but it is high
quality, consistent, and inexpensiv e. The main point of dining her e is to enjo y the
restored elegance of the original cafe, which was par t of Retiro Station when it was built
in 1915. The place had been closed for many y ears but was r estored in 2001 with the
help of a government program. It is now one of the cafés notables, the interiors of which
are considered historically impor tant to the nation. The marble has been cleaned, the
bronze chandeliers polished, and the stained-glass windows have been restored, allowing
a luminescent light to flo w in. This cafe is ideal if y ou are taking a train fr om here to
other parts of Argentina and the pr ovince, such as Tigre, or if y ou came to admir e the
architecture of R etiro and the other classical stations in this enormous transpor tation
complex. It's also worth checking out if you came to see the nearby English Clock Tower,
which sits in the plaza just outside. The staff is friendly and full of advice on things to
do in town. An attached art gallery in the hallway outside also has changing exhibitions.
A tango show takes place on Fridays at 7pm.
Ramos Meija 1358 (at Liber tador, in the Retir o Station L obby). & 11/4516-0902. Main courses $2-$6
(£1.35-£4.05). No credit cards. Daily 6:30am-10pm. Metro: Retiro.
Café Tortoni Moments CAFE You cannot come to Buenos Aires without visit-
ing this P orteño institution. The ar tistic and intellectual hangout of B uenos Air es since
1858, this historic cafe has ser ved guests such as J orge Luis Borges, Julio de Caro, Cátulo
Castillo, and J osé G obello. Its curr ent location opened in the 1890s, when A venida de
Mayo was created as the main thoroughfare of a rich and powerful emerging Buenos Aires.
Wonderfully appointed in woods, stained glass, y ellowing marble, and br onzes, the place
itself exudes more history than any of the photos and ar tifacts hanging on its walls. It's the
perfect place for a coffee or a small snack after wandering along A venida de Mayo. Twice-
nightly tango shows in a cramped side gallery, where the performers often walk through the
crowd, are worth attending, though tight seating means you'll get to know the patron next
to y ou almost too w ell. U p until r ecently, tourists and locals existed side b y side quite
comfortably, but the recent explosion in tourism has taken out some of the authenticity of
the venue, with tour buses pulling up and filling the venue with gawkers. Try to visit in the
morning, or very late at night. H owever, do not expect gr eat service: Sometimes, the only
way to get attention is to jump up and do wn, even if y our server is a fe w feet fr om you.
And management seems to be limiting who can gain entr y now: If a show is taking place
in the gallery, they may turn away touristy-looking groups who just want a snack in the cafe
or ask for a quick peak inside at the ar chitecture. All told, it's a beautiful place, but ser vice
and treating people well have never been the Tortoni's forte.
Av. de M ayo 825 (at Esmeralda). & 11/4342-4328. Main courses $2-$10 (£1.35-£6.80). AE, DC, MC, V.
Mon-Thurs 8am-2am; Fri-Sat 8am-3am; Sun 8am-1am. Metro: Av. de Mayo.

5

Filo Finds ITALIAN/PIZZA Popular with young professionals, artists, and anyone
looking for cause to celebrate, F ilo presents its happy clients with pizzas, mor e kinds of
pasta than you can imagine, salads with an Italian touch, and potent cocktails. The color-
fully decorated and crowded bar hosts occasional live music, and tango lessons take place
downstairs a few evenings per week.