Buenos Aires - Argentina - page 97

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Ligure Finds FRENCH/ITALIAN Painted mirrors look over the long rectangu-
lar dining room, which, since 1933, has drawn ambassadors, artists, and business leaders
by day and a mor e romantic crowd at night. A nautical theme pr evails, with fishnets,
dock ropes, and masts decorating the r oom; captain's wheels substitute for chandeliers.
Portions ar e huge and meticulously pr epared—an unusual combination for F rench-
inspired cuisine. Seafood options include the Patagonian tooth fish sautéed with butter ,
prawns, and mushrooms, or the tr out glazed with an almond sauce. The chateaubriand
is outstanding, and the bife de lomo (filet mignon) can be pr epared seven different ways
(pepper sauce with brandy is delightful, made at y our table).
Juncal 855 (at Esmeralda). & 11/4393-0644 or 11/4394-8226. Reser vations r ecommended. M ain
courses $6-$10 (£4.05-£6.80). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon-3pm and 8pm-midnight. Metro: San Martín.

Los Chilenos SEAFOOD/CHILEAN A taste of the long countr y next door is
what you'll find here, and because of that, this r estaurant is popular with Chileans who
live here or are visiting. It's a simple place, with a home-style feeling. The dining room
has long tables wher e everyone sits together, and it 's decorated with posters of Chilean
tourist sites and draped with Chilean flags. Fish is one of the restaurant's fortes, and one
of the most popular dishes is abalone in may onnaise.
Suipacha 1024 (at Santa Fe). & 11/4328-3123. Main courses $3-$10 (£2-£6.80). V. Mon-Sat noon-4pm
and 8pm-1am. Metro: San Martín.

Richmond Cafe CAFE/ARGENTINE Enter this place and find the pace and
atmosphere of an older Buenos Aires. The Richmond Cafe, a café notable, is all that is left
of the Richmond H otel, an Argentine-B ritish hybrid that opened in 1917 and once
catered to the elite. The cafe sits in the lobby of the former hotel, whose upstairs area has
been conv erted into offices. The menu her e is traditionally Argentine, and ther e is a
confitería section in the fr ont, serving as a cafe and fast-food eater y. You'll find locals of
all kinds here, from workers grabbing a quick bite to well-dressed seniors who must recall
Calle Florida's more elegant heyday. The decor is that of a gentlemen's club, full of wood,
brass, and red-leather upholstery. Patrons can still let loose do wnstairs, in a bar ar ea full
of billiard tables. The menu of high-quality pastries is extensiv e. The restaurant offers
hearty basics such as chicken, fish, and beef . A la car te, the food tends to be expensiv e,
but thr ee-course ex ecutive menus with a drink included ar

5

e a good bargain, r unning

about $20 (£14), depending on what y ou choose.
Calle Florida 468 (at Corrientes). & 11/4322-1341 or 11/4322-1653. http://restaurant.com.ar/richmond.
Main courses $6-$10 (£4.05-£6.80). AE, MC, V. Mon-Sat 7am-10pm. Metro: Florida.

Inexpensive
Café Literario CAFE/ARGENTINE This quiet little cafe takes advantage of its loca-
tion next door to the place where Argentine literary great Jorge Luis Borges was born. It
sort of has a loose affiliation with the F undación Internacional Jorge Luis Borges, which
works to preserve the writer's memory and work. Literature-themed, the cafe hosts read-
ings and art events on an irregular basis. A range of publications lies on shelves and racks
for patrons to per use while they eat. The idea, accor ding to the o wners, was to hav e a
place where people could come to read and eat and be more relaxed than in a library. Fare
includes light items such as sandwiches, snacks, desserts, and Argentine steak. The build-
ing is modern but opens into the patio of the adjacent YWCA (Tucumán 844; & 11/
4322-1550 ), inside a gorgeous early-20th-centur y building built o ver the no w demol-
ished house where Borges was born. Café Literario serves as the cafeteria for the YWCA.