Northern Mountains - Montenegro - page 268

Although only 33km as the crow flies, there's a border and a whole heap of mountains
between Rožaje and Plav, necessitating an 83km drive through Berane and Andrijevica.
From Andrijevica the road follows the Lim River through lush fields as the imposing
Prokletije Mountains (Montenegro's highest) begin to reveal themselves. As if knowing
that such beauty demands a mirror, picturesque Lake Plav (Plavsko jezero) has positioned
itself to provide it. It's devastatingly pretty, with swarms of tiny fish swimming between
the reeds and water lilies lining its edges, and a chorus of birds and frogs singing of their
contentment to call it home.
The human occupants seem rather less appreciative, judging by the amount of rubbish
washing into it from the township. The lakeside road passes a crop of massive turreted
houses that either take their inspiration from fairy tales or nightmares - take your pick.
Like Rožaje, Plav is a predominantly Muslim town (91%), with 80% of the people
identifying their ethnicity as Bosniak or Muslim and a further 9% as Albanian. It seems
to produce some very unusual characters, such as the overweight shirtless fellow with the
prodigious moustache wandering around with red braces attached to his shorts; or the
busty blond waitress (equal parts Bet Lynch and Candy Darling) who clears leftover
cans, serviettes and food from her tables directly into the Plav River.
Plav is another of those towns that doesn't believe in street names, so you'll have to
follow your nose through the twisting laneways of its hilly čaršija (old market area).
Sights & Activities
The minarets of multiple mosques are the most prominent feature of the centre. The most
imposing is the Sultana Mosque (Džamija Sultanija; 1909) near the main roundabout,
capped by a set of large and small domes. Nearby is the Old Mosque (Stara Džamija; 1471),
which is easily spotted by its decorated wooden minaret.
If you continue down from the roundabout to the main street, turn right and head up
the hill, you'll reach the Redžepagić Mosque (Redžepagića Džamija; 1774). A slender min-
aret made of geometrically arranged panels of wood extends from a steeply pitched and
tiled roof, which in turn is mounted on a solid stone base with a beautifully carved en-
closed wooden porch. Intricate floral motifs are carved on the door.
Slightly up the hill is the Redžepagića Kula (officially built in 1671, although possibly
16th century), another defensive tower like the one in Rožaje. The bottom two floors