Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
To get here, head towards Podgorica from the National Park Visitor Centre. After
11km turn right at the large white war memorial in Golubovci and head back down in the
direction of the lake for 6km. The resort's at the end of the road.
Žabljak Crnojevića Жабљак Црнојевића
For a brief time in the 15th century, between the fall of Skadar (now Shkodra in Albania)
and the founding of Cetinje, this was the capital of Zetan ruler Ivan Crnojević. Now the
enigmatic ruins stand forlornly on a lonely hillside surrounded by lush green plains with
only some rather large snakes and spiders as occupants.
Walking up from the small village that time forgot at its base, the 14m-high, 2m-thick
walls look intimidating enough, yet even these couldn't withstand the hammering the Ot-
toman invaders gave them in 1478 when the town was finally abandoned.
The site's a little hard to find but well worth the effort. Heading towards Podgorica,
turn left at the only set of traffic lights in Golubovci. After the railway bridge and the
one-way bridge, turn left. Continue for about 4.5km until you see a bridge to your left.
Cross the bridge and continue to the car park near the village. Take the stone stairs head-
ing up from the path near the river and follow your nose past the village church and along
the overgrown path.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Podgorica Подгорица
POP 151,000
Podgorica (pronounced 'pod·go·ri·tsa') is never going to be Europe's most happening
capital but if you can get past the sweltering summer temperatures and concrete apart-
ment blocks, you'll find a pleasant little city with lots of green space and some excellent
galleries and bars.
The city sits at the confluence of two rivers. West of the broad Morača is what passes
for the business district. The smaller Ribnica River divides the eastern side in two. To the
south is Stara Varoš, the heart of the Ottoman town. North of the Ribnica is Nova Varoš,
an attractive, mainly low-rise precinct of late-19th to early-20th-century buildings hous-
ing a lively mixture of shops and bars. At its heart is Trg Republika, the main square.