Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
HAJ-NEHAJ FORTRESS
If you wasted your youth playing
Dungeons & Dragons
or you just like poking around old ruins, the lonely bat-
tlements of Haj-Nehaj ( Хај-Нехај ) fortress should definitely be added to your itinerary. It was built in the 15th
century by the Venetians to defend their southern border from the Ottoman Turks whose conquests had brought
them as far as the river that runs into Šušanj Beach in modern Bar.
To get here from Bar, follow the highway north for 6.5km and turn left at the sign pointing towards the Sv
Nikola Hotel. At the intersection of the first sealed road to the right, a rough unsealed road heads hard right
through the houses. Walk straight up this road with the castle directly in front of you and turn right at the end in-
to a rough car park. Look for the start of the track amongst the bushes on the slope. From here it's a steep but at-
tractive walk through the pines for 30 minutes on a stony path that's often hard to distinguish.
When the gate finally does come into view the fortifications rise so precipitously from the stone that you'll be
left wondering how it was ever built. Once you're inside there are extensive ruins to explore, rising charismatic-
ally from a blanket of wild sage and flowers. At the very top, looking over Bar, is the shell of the 13th-century
St Demetrius' Church
(Crkva Sv Dimitrija), easily recognised by its vaulted roof and stone altar. It predates the
fort itself and once had separate Catholic and Orthodox altars.
Eating
Pulena Pizza Pub
MAP
PIZZERIA
€
(Vladimira Rolovića bb; mains €3-7)
Pulena is a busy eating and drinking spot under the outer of
the three spaceships that some zany architect designed as the focal point of town. Pizza,
pasta and delicious gelato are on offer.
Konoba Kod Džema
MAP
MONTENEGRIN
€
(mains €4-10; 8am-11pm)
This atmospheric stone-walled restaurant is an air-conditioned
haven midway between the train and bus stations. Nibble on delicious
pršut
(smoke-dried
ham) and bread straight off the griddle while you're waiting for your connection.
Ciao
MAP
CAFE
€
(Šetalište Kralja Nikole bb; mains €4-15)
A pleasant place for an omelette, pizza or pasta on the
waterfront.
Drinking & Nightlife
