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est coffee shops—and never saw one.) I was told that Muslims believe you don't get rid of
all your urine when you urinate standing up. For religious reasons, they squat. I found this
a bit time-consuming. In a men's room with 10 urinals, a guy knows at a glance what's
available; in a men's room with 10 doors, you have to go knocking. (And now I can em-
pathize with women who do this all the time.)
Seyed made sure we ate in comfortable (i.e., high-end) restaurants, generally in hotels.
Restaurants used Kleenex rather than napkins; there was a box of tissues on every din-
ing table. Because Iran is a tea culture, the coffee at breakfast was Nescafé-style instant.
Locals assured me that tap water was safe to drink, but I stuck with the bottled kind. Iran
is strictly “dry”—absolutely no booze or beer in public.
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